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|Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
Farthest Left route (N) on Sunshine wall. Crux is right at the start after the initial 20 ft section to the leadge. Crux protects well with small gear or #1 camalot. Remainder of route has drilled pitons.
left side of Sunshine Wall
small cams to #1 camalot
By Michael Gilbert
From: Salt Lake City
Feb 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pretty easy after the couple low cruxes, just keep putting your toes straight into the crack and head for the top. There are only 4 bolts on this whole route which makes it much more scary than difficult. If you blow the first or second clips your fall will be rather unpleasant and might involve the ground. The climbing between the second and fourth bolts is the safest, but there is probably about 40'-50' between the fourth bolt and the anchor, it gets quite runout. Fortunately that section of the climb is by far the easiest, you barely need your hands at all by that point.