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Mural Wall
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Mosaic S 
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Mural, The S 
Pi S 
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Stalking Fred S 
Transition Protocol S 

Mosaic 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Aschert, Dangle, Roth
Page Views: 556
Submitted By: Joe Collins on May 29, 2004

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BETA PHOTO

Description 

Another great Mural Wall route, though not as classic as The Mural or Monet. This is the route just left of the tree.

Easy climbing gains the business where the wall becomes steeper and blanker. Strenuous pockets, crimps, and liebacks (crux) lead to a system of juggy pockets below a final bulge. Confusion abounds here as the last bolt seems to suggest a direct finish, whereas easier but still difficult climbing leads a couple feet left of the bolt (you can still reach right to clip the bolt) to flakes and the anchor.

I thought that I might have cheated by going left at the last bulge, but later TR'd the direct finish and couldn't for the life of me figure it out (given its grade). Vertical and blank with nothing to even clip the last bolt off of. I think if the direct version is the way to go, the final bolt would (or should) have been several feet lower. Some rock scars in here suggest that another possibility could be that some holds have broken. Maybe someone else who knows the route could comment on the finish.

Protection 

6 bolts to an anchor.


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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2004

beta for the top crux at the slab/bulge: after the lower hard lockoff and pocket climbing you gain a good left hand pocket, enter the crux sequence... right hand up to 1/4 pad crimp/sidepull, right foot up on a square knob... left hand over to worse 1/6? pad crimp/sidepull... left foot up to big pocket.... suck it way in and reach with the right hand for a slopey mono-pocket that is surprisingly good... left foot smear high and gain a good but small left hand pocket... clip here or if too pumped go up higher (above the anchors) for a good pocket...
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 14, 2009

That slopey mono is friggin' awful.
Glad I'm tall so I could reach past it to the clipping pocket.
Pretty frickin' hard for 12c I'd say....