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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Morticia 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Aidan McGuire
Page Views: 1,941
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007

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Climbing the knobs on the steep lower part of the ...

Description 

Start in left facing corner, same as Lurch. Lurch pulls the roof on the right, Morticia traverses left, pulls roof, and then continues up past 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Location 

Located in the alcove on the east face. Shares same start as Lurch, is a little uphill from Dominion.


Protection 

nuts, cams to 1", quickdraws



Photos of Morticia Slideshow Add Photo
Morticia climbs the left facing corner to the roof. Left around the roof then back right and up the slab.
Morticia climbs the left facing corner to the roof...
Zach, past the roof...
Zach, past the roof...
Moving left under the roof is just one moderately hard move to start.
Moving left under the roof is just one moderately ...
Above the "roof" below a real roof. "The Mini Illusion" traverse left below the dramatic huge roof at the top of the photo. The 2000 SuperTopo guide says The Mini Illusion is still a project but rates it 12b.
Above the "roof" below a real roof. "The Mini Illu...
Topping out with airplane.
Topping out with airplane.
Zach, past the roof...
Zach, past the roof...
Comments on Morticia Add Comment
Show which comments
By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbing goes 5.6 until the roof. Roof move seemed easier than 5.9 to me, perhaps 5.8. Protect roof move with micro cam.

By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
May 2, 2013

I followed on this and decided to go directly thru and over the center of the roof. That's a fun move and probably about 5.9. It's unfortunate that the first bolt is so far to the left as it means that leading it this way requires a slightly thin left traverse and precarious leaning over to clip the bolt. Very fun route.

By Pat H
From: Berkeley, CA
Apr 18, 2014

A micro-cam and very long sling (I brought neither) would be great for the roof. Still super fun though.