|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 125'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Craig Fry & Dave Evans 2/85|
|Submitted By:||Joe LeMay on Apr 21, 2007|
|Comments on Morning Thunder||Add Comment|
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By gregory huey
From: Irvine, CA
Apr 18, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Got back to BHMG today, and decided to try to lead Morning Thunder - bagged the redpoint. The pro is better than I thought it would be, but still a little tricky. Up until the first bulge the back of the chimney is thin, but in a few spots does take small nuts. I don't know why the guidebook says to bring pitons - whats up with that? I was able to protect the route well with a set of nuts, tricams and doubles up to BD #2. I'd recommend two #3s & two #2s for the anchor. One will also probably want to extend the anchor about 6' or so to reduce rope drag. Due to the length of the route - unless you have a rope much longer than a 70m (I have a 70m) - the leader will need to belay the follower from the top. I note that the route description above says to 'Belay in a small alcove' - instead I recommend to climb up and to the left out of the alcove, clipping the fixed pin, and belay on the large ledge above. I think from here the anchors are easier, the belay more comfy and the descent less sketchy.
The pro is there, but a bit tricky - probably its best to be comfortable leading 10s before leading this one. I didn't think any single move on the route was particularly difficult, but it is long and sustained, with multiple cruxes. The guidebook calls it 10d - it might be a bit easier by JT standards. I've done a number of 10ds at JT with harder moves than appear anywhere on this route. Good stemming/chimneying footwork skill is a major bonus here.
To descend, walk around to climber's left. You will find a sketchy white rap sling which you can use, or do a 20' sketchy downclimb - your choice :). Then walk towards the top of "Book of Changes". You will see the next rap station, but not be able to (easily) get to it directly. Continue walking around in the climber's left direction further than you might think necessary, then manage a downclimb with a perfect short handcrack or faceholds to a ledge that leads back climber's right to the top of "Book of Changes". From here a 60m rap will just barely get one to the ground.