Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7 year itch T,S 
Air Male T,S 
Arch Crack T,S 
Bastard T 
Bloody Mary T 
Borderline T 
Bushido (Pitch 1 only) T 
C-Tips S 
Casual Observer T,S 
Certified Raw T 
Chik'n Garbonzo T 
Cirrhosis T 
Cooney-Norton T 
Cosmopolitan Wall T 
Earthly Night S 
Fastest Gun, The T 
Firing Line T 
FM, The T 
Freedom Flight T 
Gamesmanship T 
Grapes of Wrath T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Green Onion T 
Group Therapy T 
Hang 'Em High T,S 
It Don't Come Easy T 
Junior Varsity T 
La Spirale T 
Ladder T 
Lost Chance aka The Natural  T 
Macho T,S 
Maestro T 
Mayflower T 
Menace To Sobriety S 
Morning Star T 
P.T. Pillar T 
Pandemonium T 
Paralysis T 
Phase III T 
Pilgrim's Progress T 
Pillar T 
Psalm 32 T,S 
Psychosis T 
Puppies on Edge T 
Ragtime T 
Raptor's Sream S 
Rapture, The T,S 
Salad Days S 
Scallion T 
Snake Slide T 
Snatch, The T 
Son of a Mother T,S 
Son of Slime T 
Southern Hospitality p1 T 
Static Cling T,S 
Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 
Varsity T 

Morning Star 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 2002 Pat Munn, Donimic Eisinger
Page Views: 22
Submitted By: Matt Salter on Jun 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    An excellent route on the right side of the Pilgrim Wall that deserves more attention than it gets. Three very distinct pitches, culminating in a very exposed final section.

    P1: Scramble up some ledges to a left facing corner with a crack in it (usually dirty), and move up the corner to a vegetated ledge with a fixed anchor. 5.9

    P1(alternate): A better, cleaner start is to climb the first pitch of Earthly Nights. The start is the same as above, but then climb the bolted arete, trending right towards a belay on a spacious ledge. 5.9+

    P2: Either boulder up and right from the original belay or up and left from the Earthly Nights belay and wander up the bolted face, trending left,into a left facing corner. Fun corner climbing protected by some small gear leads to another 2-bolt belay. 5.10b

    P3: Up the crack a few feet, then traverse left about 10 feet. Head up to a handcrack, protect, and then head up and left into the giant corner. Up the corner for a bolt or two, then up the finger crack on the left wall. Climb up the crack with some creative liebacking and stemming, eventually climbing up the sustained face past excellent edges (long reaches) protected by bolts to the top. 5.10d


    At the right end of the Pilgrim Wall, just before the trail heads down a slight hill. Shares the same start with Earthly Nights.


    Many bolts, but bring a full rack up to a #2 Camalot, including some RP's.

    Comments on Morning Star Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    The Definitive
    Climbing Resource

    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run

    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps

    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes

    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!