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Morning Star 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Landrum & Ken Currens 3/75
Season: can be snowy in winter
Page Views: 1,308
Submitted By: rpc on Jan 30, 2006
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Description 

Finding this classic route is trivial: hike the trail till you see the 2-foot etching of a climber in the rock. Route starts on left side of the etching. Route offers perfect pro all the way. Stem and jam a 1-inch crack (10-). Crux hits about 30-40 feet up as the stems run out and the finger jams become very shallow. Going eases somewhat just above as some wide stemming again becomes possible. Note the cool hand holds just below double bolt anchors.


Protection 

Conservative rack includes many cams in the red Alien and/or #0.5 Camalot size. Double green and yellow Aliens. Triple #0.75 Camalots. Double #1 Camalots. A handful of small to mid-sized nuts. No larger cams needed. This is a conservative rack - i.e. hard route for me.



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 19, 2011

Great route... but this felt significantly harder than Last Chance.

This route is deceptively steep, and offers few "in balance" rests. The first crux hits midway, and it is somewhat disconcerting that all your pro is behind a somewhat hollow sounding flake. I found this first crux surprisingly tricky - the feet vanish and you need to crank on some finger jams that are slightly off balance. There is another crux higher up as well.

This route will take as many green to yellow aliens (blue to yellow mastercams) and #0.5 camalots as you can throw at it. I didn't find a place a #1 and only placed one green camalot. Some medium nuts were handy as well. I was definitely happy to have more than 2 yellow mastercams.

By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Oct 17, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Stout for the grade. I would recommend triples in .5 or .4 BD and not .75. Don't miss this climb!