|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Paul Landrum & Ken Currens 3/75|
|Season:||can be snowy in winter|
|Submitted By:||rpc on Jan 30, 2006|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Morning Star||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
May 19, 2011
Great route... but this felt significantly harder than Last Chance.
This route is deceptively steep, and offers few "in balance" rests. The first crux hits midway, and it is somewhat disconcerting that all your pro is behind a somewhat hollow sounding flake. I found this first crux surprisingly tricky - the feet vanish and you need to crank on some finger jams that are slightly off balance. There is another crux higher up as well.
This route will take as many green to yellow aliens (blue to yellow mastercams) and #0.5 camalots as you can throw at it. I didn't find a place a #1 and only placed one green camalot. Some medium nuts were handy as well. I was definitely happy to have more than 2 yellow mastercams.
From: Bend, OR
Oct 17, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|Stout for the grade. I would recommend triples in .5 or .4 BD and not .75. Don't miss this climb!|
Aug 11, 2014
|I added an extension to morning star. It adds another 45 ft or so of climbing. You can reach the ground with a 70m rope. Use small gear to protect. See Asteroid Dust for more beta.|