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Morning Glory S 

Morning Glory 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Any- always shaded
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2009

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Morning Glory

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


A fun experience even if the route is not a great route. It is long, fun, varied, and in a unique environment. The climb ascends a bolted line to the top, but would be very hard to follow without a headlamp on lead. Be mindful of a wet area to the left about 3/4 of the way up and stay right there (probable crux, 10a) all the way to the anchors.
Bang on the "drum" 5 feet up the wall to the left of the first bolt and then head on up.


From inside the cave, turn around and face the entrance and look just to the left. A bolted line with Titanium glue-ins will be visible leading up to the opening at the top of the wall... if you have a headlamp.


Thirteen bolts a bolted anchor. The route is approximately 100 feet long, so at least a 60M rope is required, and depending on your line, may come in at just the end... or shorter. Ties know if lowering or rapping, ESPECIALLY since it is dark in there.
The belayer should beware to stay away from the leader or wear a helmet in case some rocks are dropped in the dark, which is possible.

Photos of Morning Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning Glory
Morning Glory
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning Glory
Morning Glory

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By Brian Boyd
From: Kowloon, Hong Kong
Mar 30, 2016

My vote for the best 5.10 sport climb anywhere. Reasons: 1. Setting! It is in an enormous cave. 2. Approach! The cave is guarded by an inobvious entrance -- squeeze through a slot, short scramble, then squat through a low passageway. 3. Headlamp! I've overexposed my photos a bit (well, 5 stops) so that you can see the climber; but it's dark in there. 4. Long! About 100' high. 5. Sustained! No real crux, and lots of varied moves along the way.

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