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Windy Cave
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Morning Glory S 

Morning Glory 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Any- always shaded
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2009

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun experience even if the route is not a great route. It is long, fun, varied, and in a unique environment. The climb ascends a bolted line to the top, but would be very hard to follow without a headlamp on lead. Be mindful of a wet area to the left about 3/4 of the way up and stay right there (probable crux, 10a) all the way to the anchors.
Bang on the "drum" 5 feet up the wall to the left of the first bolt and then head on up.


Location 

From inside the cave, turn around and face the entrance and look just to the left. A bolted line with Titanium glue-ins will be visible leading up to the opening at the top of the wall... if you have a headlamp.


Protection 

More than a dozen draws too a bolted anchor. The route is approximately 100 feet long, so at least a 60M rope is required, and depending on your line, may come in at just the end... or shorter. Ties know if lowering or rapping, ESPECIALLY since it is dark in there.
The belayer should beware to stay away from the leader or wear a helmet in case some rocks are dropped in the dark, which is possible.



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By Brian Boyd
Administrator
Mar 5, 2014

The route name is Morning Glory, and the area is called the Windy Cave. 13 bolts.