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Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 
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Skyline T 
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Veal Cage S 

Morning Glory 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Hanna North, 2003
Page Views: 2,353
Submitted By: meo on Jun 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Dede is following P1. P2 angles up and left, whil...

Description 

Three pitch's 10a,10d,10b The best pitch and the crux are the 2nd. The third pitch does not follow the natural line but rather goes straight up after pulling a very exposed move onto the large flake.


Location 

The route is on the east face around and left of the popular SkyLine route. You can make three rappels with one rope back to the base and your packs.


Protection 

Mostly bolts but could supplement with a light rack. Small to medium



Photos of Morning Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Jordan led this sweet multi pitch. Me and Jacob following
Jordan led this sweet multi pitch. Me and Jacob fo...
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By tom selleck
Oct 3, 2007

You can also just rap to the ground uphill of where you started in one rap and do a little downhill hiking back to the base. Probably faster than doing three raps. Great route!

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 3, 2007

You can make one rap from the top with a 60m rope (just makes it) from the Skyline anchors. Those anchors are located right at the top of the formation.

By Mike Minson
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 5, 2010

Two 60 m ropes get you to the ground in one rap. Climbing in a threesome sets this up perfectly.

By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Sep 19, 2011

Did this climb yesterday, and we were a little thrown off by the third pitch. After the first 3 bolts there was an unexpected runout on easy climbing. It was nothing really dangerous, but it wasn't mentioned in the book. It wouldn't hurt to have another bolt somewhere in there.

The bouldery start of P3 on the big flake definitely made the climb for me! I would also recommend continuing up to the Skyline anchors and rapping from there.

By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 15, 2013

I agree the second pitch is what makes this one worth it. For the last pitch we did a variation where we followed the crack/corner till it ended and then headed straight up the face. My guess is the rating is still around 10a or b only cause the first move off the second pitch belay is that hard, other than that the rest is pretty easy with a runout 5-4 or so. No additional bolt is needed here.

By Casey Poulson
Oct 19, 2013

Definitely watch your shit on the 3rd pitch, easy climbing but atleast a 25+ foot runout, very exciting!