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This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.
Park at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Morning Glory Spire
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morning Glory Spire:
Skyline 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Incisor 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Book of Dissent 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Reach for the Sky 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Fall Line 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Morning Glory 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Brown Flake 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Siesta 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Crack of Doom 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Strategic Defense 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Power Tools 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Morning Glory Spire
Brown Flake 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire
This route begins just to the left of Strategic Defense 5.11c. The opening moves follow a left facing dihedral and are tough to stop and place gear. A rest is had before a 1 inch crack, follow this crack and traverse to the left. Work out some thin gear in the cracks and setup for the traverse back to the right. This is where the fun begins. Lieback the flake, and work hard to protect yourself. The gear can be good, but it is pumpy to place. Race to the ledge before your hands open up on ...[more] Browse More Classics in ID
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