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This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.
Park at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Morning Glory Spire
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morning Glory Spire:
Skyline 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Incisor 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Book of Dissent 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Fall Line 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Reach for the Sky 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Morning Glory 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Brown Flake 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Siesta 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Crack of Doom 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Strategic Defense 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Power Tools 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Morning Glory Spire
Crack of Doom 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire
This is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is found 35ft to right of the start of Skyline 5.8. The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well. Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a. Work the face on the right and get established in the thin finger cra...[more] Browse More Classics in ID
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