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Morning Glory Spire
Uplift Double Pulley

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Scarpa Helix Climbing Shoe - Women's

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Pearl Izumi Quest Bike Short - Men's

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent 
Brown Flake 
Crack of Doom 
Fall Line 
Incisor 
Morning Glory 
Power Tools 
Reach for the Sky 
Siesta 
Skyline 
Strategic Defense 
Veal Cage 

Morning Glory Spire 


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Administrators: grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 26, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Morning Glory Spire from the Road.

Description 

This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.


Getting There 

Park at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morning Glory Spire:
Incisor   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Skyline   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Fall Line   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Reach for the Sky   5.10b R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Morning Glory   5.10c/d     Sport, 3 pitches, 250 feet   
Brown Flake   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Siesta   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Crack of Doom   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Strategic Defense   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet   
Power Tools   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Morning Glory Spire

Featured Route For Morning Glory Spire
Thin crack section...

Crack of Doom 5.11c  ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire
This is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is found 35ft to right of the start of Skyline 5.8. The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well. Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a. Work the face on the right and get established in the thin finger cra...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID


Photos of Morning Glory Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset over Morning Glory Spire

Sunset over Morning Glory Spire

Panorama view from the top of <a href='/v/morning-glory-spire/105739635'>Morning Glory Spire</a>.

Panorama view from the top of Morning Glory Spire.

Morning Glory Spire, aka "The Incisor"

Morning Glory Spire, aka "The Incisor"

Looking South from atop Morning Glory Spire

BETA PHOTO: Looking South from atop Morning Glory Spire

Morning Glory Spire.

Morning Glory Spire.


Comments on Morning Glory Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 22, 2005

AKA The Incisor.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 31, 2006

Perhaps the highest concentration of quality routes at the City. Awesome stuff. And you can follow the shade or sun like a sundial around the base. A 70m rope comes in handy here.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Dec 5, 2009

I lost a pair of la sportiva muiras at the base of strategic defense/crack of doom at the city of rocks, the second week of october, 2009. The shoes were probably size 40. If you found them, please, let me know.