Morning Glory Spire Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Morning Glory Spire from the Road.
This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.
Park at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side.
Weather station 14.4 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Morning Glory Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Morning Glory Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Morning Glory Spire:
Skyline 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Chimney 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Fall Line 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Morning Glory 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Brown Flake 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Siesta 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Power Tools 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Morning Glory Spire
Brown Flake 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b ID
: City of Rocks
: Morning Glory Spire
This route begins just to the left of Strategic Defense 5.11c. The opening moves follow a left facing dihedral and are tough to stop and place gear. A rest is had before a 1 inch crack, follow this crack and traverse to the left. Work out some thin gear in the cracks and setup for the traverse back to the right. This is where the fun begins. Lieback the flake, and work hard to protect yourself. The gear can be good, but it is pumpy to place. Race to the ledge before your hands open up on ...[more] Browse More Classics in ID
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 22, 2005
AKA The Incisor.
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Jul 31, 2006
Perhaps the highest concentration of quality routes at the City. Awesome stuff. And you can follow the shade or sun like a sundial around the base. A 70m rope comes in handy here.
From: SL UT
Dec 5, 2009
I lost a pair of la sportiva muiras at the base of strategic defense/crack of doom at the city of rocks, the second week of october, 2009. The shoes were probably size 40. If you found them, please, let me know.
By Seth Hendy
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 8, 2015
The description of how to get to Morning Glory Spire is so frustrating and a waste of peoples time. It says that it is the parking lot just past campsite 64 and 65 which is not correct. If someone goes to campsite 64 you will find your self 20 mins past where you really need to be.
It is as simple as follow City of Rocks road through the main campsite area past Bath Rock until you see the turn for Parking Lot Rock. Once you get on the main trail just simply follow it until you see the sign for Morning Glory Spire. 5 min approach