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Morning Glory Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Chimney T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Morning Glory Spire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.08282, -113.72147 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,615
Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 26, 2004
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Morning Glory Spire from the Road.

Description 

This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.

Getting There 

Park at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.4 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',5],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Morning Glory Spire:
Skyline   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Reach for the Sky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Fall Line   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Morning Glory   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   
Brown Flake   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Siesta   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Crack of Doom   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Strategic Defense   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Power Tools   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Morning Glory Spire

Featured Route For Morning Glory Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: A.M. nearing the top of Fall Line on Morning Glory...

Fall Line 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire
This is the most popular sport climb on the Morning Glory Spire. Start just right of Syline 5.8. If you straighten out the line, it is 5.10c. If you zig and zag on the good holds, it is only 5.10a.Follow a right facing corner, until you hit a slab. The slab is a little runout. Fun face climbing is had above. Head right to ease the grade. Finish on a small bulge right before the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Morning Glory Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset over Morning Glory Spire
Sunset over Morning Glory Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama view from the top of Morning Glory Spire.
Panorama view from the top of Morning Glory Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning Glory Spire, aka "The Incisor"
Morning Glory Spire, aka "The Incisor"
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning for Morning Glory.  Lombardphoto
Early morning for Morning Glory. Lombardphoto
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning Glory looking pretty busy during the Idaho...
Morning Glory looking pretty busy during the Idaho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning Glory Spire.
Morning Glory Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Morning Glory Spire
Climbers on Morning Glory Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking South from atop Morning Glory Spire
BETA PHOTO: Looking South from atop Morning Glory Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Late summer evening
Late summer evening

Comments on Morning Glory Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 22, 2005
AKA The Incisor.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 31, 2006
Perhaps the highest concentration of quality routes at the City. Awesome stuff. And you can follow the shade or sun like a sundial around the base. A 70m rope comes in handy here.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Dec 5, 2009
I lost a pair of la sportiva muiras at the base of strategic defense/crack of doom at the city of rocks, the second week of october, 2009. The shoes were probably size 40. If you found them, please, let me know.
By Seth Hendy
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 8, 2015
The description of how to get to Morning Glory Spire is so frustrating and a waste of peoples time. It says that it is the parking lot just past campsite 64 and 65 which is not correct. If someone goes to campsite 64 you will find your self 20 mins past where you really need to be.

It is as simple as follow City of Rocks road through the main campsite area past Bath Rock until you see the turn for Parking Lot Rock. Once you get on the main trail just simply follow it until you see the sign for Morning Glory Spire. 5 min approach

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