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Morning Glory Spire
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Morning Glory 4th Class Route T 

Morning Glory 4th Class Route 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, 200'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,270
Submitted By: Will Cobb on May 19, 2006

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Morning Glory Spire Approach

Description 

Once in the saddle between Morning Glory and Jap Head boulder up the short headwall then turn left and scramble up. There are a few short borderline 5th class spots where some climbers may want a belay. Top out and enjoy one of the best summits in all of Sedona.

(Three stars for the summit views. One star for the climbing.)

Location 

The route starts on the East face of the spire in the Saddle between Morning Glory and Jap Head. Look for the path of least resistance.

Protection 

A rope and one or two draws for some fixed gear on this route. This is a great route to take a hiker or beginning climber up. There is a fixed baby angle on the spire's summit to clip nervous partners into, but there is not rap anchor. Descent is by downclimbing the route. (This is where the rope may really come in handy...)


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By Dave Spies
From: Sedona, AZ
Feb 26, 2012

This is a great summit, and a great place to moon the helicopters :) Ropes would be overkill. I have taken many non climbers up this route. All of the climbing sections are 15-20 feet long off huge ledges and only require a good spotter for the non climbers.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2016
rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

A very enjoyable scramble. The actual "climbing" starts from the saddle on the east side of the spire (between Morning Glory and Jap Head) with a low-angled class-4 slab. If you've brought a rope, bring it to the top of this slab and stash it there, because this is the point of rappel.

From the top of the slab, pick your own adventure along the ridge. Below the summit on the left (east) side is a fun and secure class-4 chimney section off a fat ledge. Beyond that it's an easy, photogenic ramble to the tippy top.

Best way to descend (IMO): Retrace your steps down the ridge to where you stashed your rope and locate two bolts above the initial low-angled slab. Two full-length rappels (knot your ends on the second rap!) with a single 60-m rope take you all the way down a prominent, blocky corner on the east face, depositing you partway down the bushy approach gully. This saves having to downclimb the initial slab and the upper part of gully below the saddle.

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