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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Morning After 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Andress, Doug Tompkins 1964
Page Views: 1,170
Submitted By: JSH on May 28, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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The ropes are on Bloody Mary (5.6); Mor...
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Description 

P1 is a bit ... necky.

Start just left of the blocky chimney/corner of Bloody Mary. Climb up leftwards to a right-facing flake and clip a pin (which can be backed up, but the flake is also loose). Make a few 5.8 face moves above this stance to another set of right-facing flakes (these are also loose, and groundfall is a probability). Traverse left towards another set of right-facing flakes, up this past a small 'hang, then traverse right to the set of trees above Bloody Mary. 5.8-

P2 turns the overhang above and to the right of the belay trees. Continue up to the GT ledge. 5.7

P3: Climb up to a small overhang, passing it on the right. Layback the flake in a groove, and up to the clifftop. 5.8-

From the clifftop, walkoff via Uberfall Descent. From the GT, you can rappel in two ropes over Drunkard's Delight, to climber's left.


Location 

Morning After climbs the face just left of the Bloody Mary, and 40' right of Drunkard's Delight.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack; one mediocre pin.



Photos of Morning After Slideshow Add Photo
P1 of Morning After.  From where the climber is head a little further left to the right-facing flakes and up right to the multi-forked tree.
P1 of Morning After. From where the climber is he...
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By SethG
Oct 27, 2010

We only did the first two pitches, but I thought they were both very nice.

I led P1, and I think I disagree with Julie's comments above about it being necky. I didn't find the first shallow right-facing corner (just below the pin) to be loose. I got what I thought was a bomber nut and a cam almost at the same level as the pin. Then you can easily move up to the next stance before the crux move and place something in the awkward little down-facing, flaring pod. This was the one spot where I worried a bit about the gear, but I thought the cam was good. After the next move the pro is abundant and solid.

Pitch two is really fun, the moves out to the overhang and over it are nothing; the crux is the thin face-climbing above. A very nice 5.7 pitch.

By JSH
Administrator
Oct 27, 2010

If I remember right (been a while) I found that I *had* to step up - basically the crux - before I could reach gear into the down-facing pod thing; but my taller partner gets to place that gear from the much better stance below? That's what feels necky to me - that step puts you at or above where the last gear might keep you off the ground. Maybe the neckiness is a bit height-dependent.

By SethG
Oct 27, 2010

I'm short and I could reach it by moving my feet up just a little left of the piton, placing the gear, and then stepping back right and up.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13

Definitely enough gear to prevent ground fall at and after the first piton. Unfortunately, in true Gunks style (also see Drunkard's Delight), you have to climb 10-20 feet to get your first piece in.

On pitch 3 there's a large, VERY loose block below the first small overhang that should be completely ignored and not touched. For the move to the right of it you can, CAREFULLY, use the right side of the block to step up, being high aware to not move your foot during the move. The right side of the block is wider and won't tip as easily as the left.

By DEF
From: CT
Apr 30, 2012

Found p3 very interesting, that VERY loose block could kill somebody, enormous and could be knocked out with your pinky. DONT TOUCH THAT THING! The third pitch also starts with very minimal gear before you get to the flakes and start to move right. A bit of an adventure but I thought it was very fun!

By SethG
Apr 8, 2013

Linking pitch one of Bloody Mary with pitch two of Morning After is a three-star experience, and the link-up makes for one of the best 5.7's in the Gunks, in my opinion. Non-stop good climbing with a variety of techniques involved.