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Morning After 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA:  Paul Davidson, Mark Force, 1979
Page Views: 318
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Sep 26, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very nice climb if you create a variation different than that posted by MK in his handout.

Climb Morning's Mourning about 12 m where you can establish yourself on the left side of the arete. Climb the arete and face just left of the arete to the obvious crossover at the base of the "crown"; onto the face right of the arete. Climb the finger crack (rattley fingers and off-hands) to the top out.


Location 

Immediately left of Mourning's Mourning.


Protection 

Standard rack to a # 1 camalot.



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By Paul Davidson
Sep 26, 2008

This is a great climb.
Done it many times over the years.

I have a fuzzy memory of putting this up in the later '70's
but I'd check w/ Baxter to see if he remembers the FA.

After looking at the Mourning's Morning shot,
I'm pretty sure FA was myself and Jim Haisley (perhaps Kim Spence.)
It was a bit dusty at the time.
Late afternoon...
Reasonably stiff exiting moves for the time but short.

  • **** found my old note book with firsts at the overlook...
I'll post stuff as time permits...

FA - Paul Davidson, Mark Force, 1979

BTW - First ascent did a unique start to the left of MM that was quite worthwhile. Start is similar to Always Been Crazy but slightly right and involves turning back into the corner.

I'll post a pic at some point. Got to spend a couple of days at the Overlook and sorted out in my mind where a lot of the stuff we did went.