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A thin, sustained arete with great finishing position. Boulder to the first bolt, then launch into three bolts worth of very thin and technical crimping and high-stepping. After a somewhat commiting deadpoint to a first-pad edge (it'll feel like a jug after what you've been pulling on), power over a slight bulge to a rest stance. The rest of the climb involves classic arete liebacking. The moves are easier than what's below, but stay technical and pumpy to the end.
The first 5.12 in the Tieton. This climb was sent on a morning after.
Obvious arete on the far right side of the Orange Sunshine area; one of the first routes reached by the approach trail. Can be easily toproped by climbing Jam Exam (5.9) to the left or Paul Maul (.10c) to the right.
8 bolts, rap anchor. Toe-hook the arete to clip the fourth bolt.
By James Ellis
From: Seattle, Washington
6 days ago
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One of the most sustained technical 12a's I've climbed in recent memory. Certainly holds the grade.