Morning After 5.10d PG13
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JJ past the crux and on easy ground.
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Description Locate the thin, discontinuous crack to the right of Watermarks. This is Morning After, and in my opinion, the best route on the wall. The crux involves switching from laying back one side of the crack, to laying back the other. The movement on this climb, the tricky footwork, forces the climber into an elegant vertical dance.
Protection The pro is actually pretty good, though it may be strenuous to place. Stoppers work wonders, as do small TCUs.
JJ just after the crux.
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Isaac Therneau on lead. Fun climb. Aug 09.
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Vinny, at the start.
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Vinny at the first pro.
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Ready for the crux move?
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| Comments on Morning After |
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 29, 2006
| Crux piece is a really nice small red camalot or equivalent. Nice line with some fun committer moves down low. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 17, 2010
| You can make the start of this climb safer by climbing in to a point just above the bottom crux from the right near the corner arete (directly in front and above the tree) on good feet and hand holds, place an orange Metolius power cam or TCU then step back down and pull the crux from the bottom with nice pro. Otherwise its a boulder problem start just like Watermarks Direct. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d PG13
| It looks like the 1st piece of pro on this is a real solid looking slot about 15 feet up? Looks like a decent spot for a .5 or .4 camalot? I'd like to give this a go- looks real fun. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 2, 2010
| Andy.... your right and you should. It is the best route on the wall and especially if you lead it. The moves are very flowing and there is great gear, especially if you sneak in above the crux and place the bomber cam like I mention- then step back down and pull the crux. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d PG13
| Went for the onsight lead of this today. The cryptic nature of Devil's Lake Quartzite strikes again! Got into a good stance to place the 1st pro. Thankfully it's a bomber cam. Moved up a bit and placed a 000 C3 which seemed to be pretty good and as I was confidently moving through the crux moves on good crimps, my foot skated out stupidly and I fell. The cam held but only 1 1/2 lobes were engaged. Very thrilling. My belayer immediately lowered me. I recuperated my tender toes, fired the crux, ran it out a bit, placed good gear and romped to the finish. Very good route. |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| Awesome lead, and well protected. |
By Trad Nanny
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b PG13
| No way is this 10d, maybe 10b but it felt more like Watermarks Direct than Sometime Direct. Classic for 20ft and then jug hauls to the top. |
By Terry Kieck
Aug 12, 2011
| If you avoid reaching out right and contrive yourself to the crack it makes this route more 10d. But if you use everything within reach, it definately feels easier. Especially at the start. Classic lake route! |
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| I agree with Terry. There are some burly full-extension moves if you head directly up the seam and avoid the right-side arete. Got the OS of this last week after climbing up and down the first 10 feet several times. |
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Aug 18, 2011
| I beleive the first lead of Morning After was by Tommy Deuchler. mid 1970,s I could be mistaken. This is a cool climb with what we considered to be good gear back in the late 70,s. peace and f-nes Steve S |
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