Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Balanced Rock Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 
13 5.4 Corner T 
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 
6.63 Smoots T,TR 
AAHRG T,TR 
Basswood Chimney T,TR 
Beer and Booty T,TR 
Bifurcation T,TR 
Der Glotz TR 
False Dilemma T 
Fear and Trembling TR 
Grandma's Staircase TR 
Invitation T,TR 
Invitation Direct T,TR 
Moondust  T 
Morning After T 
Mr. Neutron TR 
New Box T,TR 
Night Before TR 
R.S.V.P. T,TR 
Red Pulpit T,TR 
Spring Fever TR 
Sunken Pillar T,TR 
Switch Cover Crack T 
Watermarks T,TR 
Watermarks Direct T,TR 
Watermarks Left Side TR 

Morning After 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Vinny at the first pro.

Description 

Locate the thin, discontinuous crack to the right of Watermarks. This is Morning After, and in my opinion, the best route on the wall. The crux involves switching from laying back one side of the crack, to laying back the other. The movement on this climb, the tricky footwork, forces the climber into an elegant vertical dance.

Protection 

The pro is actually pretty good, though it may be strenuous to place. Stoppers work wonders, as do small TCUs.


Photos of Morning After Slideshow Add Photo
JJ past the crux and on easy ground.
JJ past the crux and on easy ground.
JJ just after the crux.
JJ just after the crux.
Vinny, at the start.
Vinny, at the start.
Isaac Therneau on lead.  Fun climb.  Aug 09.
Isaac Therneau on lead. Fun climb. Aug 09.
Ready for the crux move?
Ready for the crux move?

Comments on Morning After Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 29, 2006

Crux piece is a really nice small red camalot or equivalent. Nice line with some fun committer moves down low.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 17, 2010

You can make the start of this climb safer by climbing in to a point just above the bottom crux from the right near the corner arete (directly in front and above the tree) on good feet and hand holds, place an orange Metolius power cam or TCU then step back down and pull the crux from the bottom with nice pro. Otherwise its a boulder problem start just like Watermarks Direct.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

It looks like the 1st piece of pro on this is a real solid looking slot about 15 feet up? Looks like a decent spot for a .5 or .4 camalot? I'd like to give this a go- looks real fun.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 2, 2010

Andy.... your right and you should. It is the best route on the wall and especially if you lead it. The moves are very flowing and there is great gear, especially if you sneak in above the crux and place the bomber cam like I mention- then step back down and pull the crux.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Went for the onsight lead of this today. The cryptic nature of Devil's Lake Quartzite strikes again! Got into a good stance to place the 1st pro. Thankfully it's a bomber cam. Moved up a bit and placed a 000 C3 which seemed to be pretty good and as I was confidently moving through the crux moves on good crimps, my foot skated out stupidly and I fell. The cam held but only 1 1/2 lobes were engaged. Very thrilling. My belayer immediately lowered me. I recuperated my tender toes, fired the crux, ran it out a bit, placed good gear and romped to the finish. Very good route.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome lead, and well protected.
By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

No way is this 10d, maybe 10b but it felt more like Watermarks Direct than Sometime Direct. Classic for 20ft and then jug hauls to the top.
By Terry Kieck
Aug 12, 2011

If you avoid reaching out right and contrive yourself to the crack it makes this route more 10d. But if you use everything within reach, it definately feels easier. Especially at the start. Classic lake route!
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I agree with Terry. There are some burly full-extension moves if you head directly up the seam and avoid the right-side arete. Got the OS of this last week after climbing up and down the first 10 feet several times.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Aug 18, 2011

I beleive the first lead of Morning After was by Tommy Deuchler. mid 1970,s I could be mistaken. This is a cool climb with what we considered to be good gear back in the late 70,s. peace and f-nes Steve S