Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rope de Dope Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Float Like a Butterfly TR 
How Low Can You Go? S,TR 
Immortal Beloved S 
Low Blow S 
Mini Bender S 
Morgantown S 
North Slab Crack T,TR 
Rope de Dope Crack T 
Shamu S 
Sleepy Town S 
Sting Like a Bee S 

Morgantown 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: All
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: Addict on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A short but very fun face climb 2 to the right of the 5.8 crack. It used to be a TR, but now has bolts. This is the center of 3 routes next to each other.

The crux is the lower half and involves some excellent sidepulls and gas pockets with smeary feet and 1 heel hook. Very athletic for the grade. Much better than Float Like A Butterfly. Would be a 4 star route if it was twice as long.

Protection 

4 bolts with an 2 bolt anchor


Comments on Morgantown Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Tvedt
Apr 25, 2006

Back in October of 1999, Alan Watts answered a question posted on the now defunct crag.com about Rope De Dope routes. Based on this posting by him, the routes and names on the block got remamed when a number of them got bolted around then. This route sounds like what is now called "Morgantown" and was given a tentative 10b by Alan. It's the center route(of 3) right of Rope De Dope Crack. I agree it's a great route and I'd possibly consider it 4 star too if it was longer. 10c sounds reasonable to me also. The "new" bolted "Sting Like a Bee" route is just right of the crack(and just left of this route), and was also given a tentative 10b then.
Alan noted that the line drawn for Sting Like a Bee in his 92 guide was drawn incorrectly and that the current bolted line for it doesn't follow the line in the guide.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 31, 2006

This is a super fun route with some really cool moves. At the bottom there is a system of sidepulls and gastons that look like africa and pulling the roof is sweet. It would be cool if the route was longer but it is still a classic.
By richard magill
May 21, 2013

great movement, super continuous
By scotticusmaximus
From: Felton, CA
Sep 12, 2013

Great movement and fun climb! Just be careful clipping the second bolt as it happens right around a big move and there's decking potential - probably why there's that bolt for the belayer.