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A short but very fun face climb 2 to the right of the 5.8 crack. It used to be a TR, but now has bolts. This is the center of 3 routes next to each other.
The crux is the lower half and involves some excellent sidepulls and gas pockets with smeary feet and 1 heel hook. Very athletic for the grade. Much better than Float Like A Butterfly. Would be a 4 star route if it was twice as long.
4 bolts with an 2 bolt anchor
|By David Tvedt|
Apr 25, 2006
Back in October of 1999, Alan Watts answered a question posted on the now defunct crag.com about Rope De Dope routes. Based on this posting by him, the routes and names on the block got remamed when a number of them got bolted around then. This route sounds like what is now called "Morgantown" and was given a tentative 10b by Alan. It's the center route(of 3) right of Rope De Dope Crack. I agree it's a great route and I'd possibly consider it 4 star too if it was longer. 10c sounds reasonable to me also. The "new" bolted "Sting Like a Bee" route is just right of the crack(and just left of this route), and was also given a tentative 10b then.
Alan noted that the line drawn for Sting Like a Bee in his 92 guide was drawn incorrectly and that the current bolted line for it doesn't follow the line in the guide.
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 31, 2006
This is a super fun route with some really cool moves. At the bottom there is a system of sidepulls and gastons that look like africa and pulling the roof is sweet. It would be cool if the route was longer but it is still a classic.
From: Felton, CA
Sep 12, 2013
Great movement and fun climb! Just be careful clipping the second bolt as it happens right around a big move and there's decking potential - probably why there's that bolt for the belayer.