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More Obsessive Tendencies 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brian Team, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 382
Submitted By: KipHenrie on Jan 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

The first 3 bolts is strenuous with no feet with sloping holds. Just grunt up this to a nice no hands rest. Moving up to the old chains placement is really fun - supposedly 11b to this point, I thought it was easier. Big moves to big holds.

At the old chain placement the moves get trickier and steeper. It slopes in slightly then bulges out. The next 3-4 moves is the obvious crux. As you reach this insloping area find crimps - then to an interesting triangular pocket, a pinch, a crimp then a bigger hold at the next crease. Once thru it you are rewarded with awesome traversing jugs to the chains. You'll be pumped and exposed but the holds are there.

Location 

Right of Back in the Saddle.

Protection 

10 bolts to chains


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