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Beach Boy 
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More Madness 
Reefer Madness 
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Under the Influence.  
Under the Spell 

More Madness 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Ross Steve Radalch Patrick Moe. April 19th 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: USBRIT on Apr 21, 2009
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Description 

This route has some classic delicate slab climbing the middle two pitches being quite sustained from the 5.8 to the 5.10 range.This climb after the 4th pitch joins onto the upper easy pitches of Reefer Madness.From here one can continue up for about another 700' to the summit of the formation.

P1)Follow the Slab /Groove up to the right to double anchors below a steep slab.Some cam pro. 5.6R.160'
P2) Just left of the belay climb with difficulty passed two bolts.The climbing stays interesting . Follow a total of 5 bolts trending slightly right to double anchors below another steeper wave.5.10/5.8R 180'.
P3)Straight up from the belay passing two bolts at 5.9+ ,continue at about 5.8R . At the 4th and last bolt a 70' runout at 5.6 to double anchors. 5.9+ 200'.
P4)Straight up at about 5.3 to double anchors 160'.(Junction with the 1780'Reefer Madness route). From here one can climb several 200' 5.3/4 pitches to the fine summit of this massive formation.
See RM description.


Location 

Located on the north side of the Reefer Madness formation.Scramble from the top of the brown wave into the entrance of the Slot canyon on the north side of the Reefer Madness formation. Just as one enters a Slab /Groove trending up to the right is on the left side, this is the first pitch.


Protection 

Cams .5" to #2 Camelot. Slings ,quick draws, two 60m ropes



Photos of More Madness Slideshow Add Photo
View of the Reefer Madness formation from the pull to Little Spotted Wolf Canyon. A) The More Madness route. The route up to the top of the formation via Reefer Madness is over 1700'
View of the Reefer Madness formation from the pull...
Half way up the 160' first pitch out of the slot canyon. Photo Pat Moe
Half way up the 160' first pitch out of the slot c...
Steve belaying Pat on Pitch 4
Steve belaying Pat on Pitch 4
Patrick on first pitch
Patrick on first pitch
Paul starting the 5.10 section of the 180' second pitch. Photo Pat Moe
Paul starting the 5.10 section of the 180' second ...
Paul on the 5.10 section of the 180' pitch 2. Photo Pat Moe
Paul on the 5.10 section of the 180' pitch 2. Phot...
The entrance to the slot canyon where the route starts.A) The start.
The entrance to the slot canyon where the route st...
Rapping the route.
Rapping the route.
Patrick following pitch 2 after the main difficulties
Patrick following pitch 2 after the main difficult...
Steave belaying Pat at the top of the  second pitch
Steave belaying Pat at the top of the second pitc...
A) More Madness. 5.10 B)Reefer Madness.5.9+. Note the line of the route is just a very rough guide to the situation of the climb. It does not show moves to the right or left ..
A) More Madness. 5.10 B)Reefer Madness.5.9+. Note ...
The final easy pitch 4 that links into Reefer Madness. Photo Pat Moe
The final easy pitch 4 that links into Reefer Madn...
Heading Home.
Heading Home.
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