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More Fun with Dick and Jane 

5.9-

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
FA: Forrest Gardner - 1986 (FRA)
Submitted By: Br'er Rabbit on May 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Description 

Layback and smear up the flake getting good gear as you go, transition into the crack and move up to a good rest on a ledge above. Steel your nerves, get yo' mind right and slip and slide up the slopers and edges until you reach a final slopey rail with poor feet...now, figure out how to let go and clip the rings at the same time...


Location 

Located in Sunset North section, 10' left of The Diamond. Start is marked by a big, sweeping flake at the base... Look at the photo.


Protection 

Sew it up down low. There is very little gear after the flake/crack. There is one horizontal that will take a pink tricam/0.4 Camalot at chest height once on the small ledge after the crack and another pocket that will take a 00 TCU 5' after that. Then, it is a 25' unprotected run to the top on slopers and edges.



Photos of More Fun with Dick and Jane Slideshow Add Photo
Amanda on her first ever outdoor climb, More Fun With Dick and Jane.

Amanda on her first ever outdoor climb, More Fun W...

Amanda near the anchors on More Fun With Dick and Jane.

Amanda near the anchors on More Fun With Dick and ...


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By Charles Cooper
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.9

This was a fun route with lots of variety. Probably pretty close to 5.9, sort of run out beneath the anchors for the leader.