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Church Bowl
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More Balls Than Brains 

A3 PG13

   
Type: TR, Aid, 60'
Consensus: A3 [details]
FA: Dana Brown, 1980
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Ryan Kosh on Oct 24, 2010
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Hook moves down low

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Description 

Follow hook moves and two hangerless bolts to a thin seam. Can be done hammerless if you're feeling ambitious.

Easy to set a toprope after climbing Church Bowl Tree. Can be led, but there's no good gear until up higher so a fall before the offset cam placements will be onto a hangerless bolt...


Location 

10 ft. to the right of Church Bowl Tree.


Protection 

Hooks, small pins/pecker, rivet hangers (bring a screamer if leading), and angles or offset aliens; fixed heads. Two bolt anchor up top.



Photos of More Balls Than Brains Slideshow Add Photo
PING! Brandan on MBTB.
PING! Brandan on MBTB.
Florian Dörfler doing a free ascent of the upper section (the start is blank and cannot be climbed free). He did a pendulum from the adjacent boulder to reach the bottom of the thin crack.
Florian Dörfler doing a free ascent of the upper s...
Comments on More Balls Than Brains Add Comment
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By kevin deweese
From: walnut creek, ca
Mar 1, 2011

From the anchors of Church Bowl Tree an ambitious pendulum to the right can be made to set up a top rope on the two bolt anchors at the top of the crack.

hooking moves are bathooks so having a talon is very helpful.

By T B
Jun 18, 2012

Nice to see Dana get credit for this... I was his belay monkey that day (though I think I drilled one of the bolts). Lawn chair, case of beer, fun times.

By TacoDelRio
From: The Ditch and the hood
Feb 5, 2013

Nice and thin!