Moraviana  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  unknown Season:  year round Submitted By:  steitz on Feb 22, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Charlie near to topping out on the second pitch

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Description 

A very moderate two pitch climb, with the crux being towards the top of the last pitch.

Start to the right up the upper slab, and quickly enter a left facing corner. Vegetation in the crack makes getting protection tricky. Power past this to a few easy moves and reach old rusted bolts to set up a belay.

The second pitch begins with a long scramble up fourth class terrain before you reach a nice vertical section, with some fun moves.

It's a pretty easy climb, and protection shouldn't be a problem after the first corner. Easy to knock out and totally fun, the location is great late in the day when you can watch a beautiful sunset.

Definitely check it out, off the path enough that the mobs at Precipice shouldn't be a problem. For a great time do it in the shoulder season @ Acadia.

Location 

South Bubble, start above the lower slab, on the right.

A climbers trail at the left of the top of the cliff allegedly exists, we scrabbled right through the brush and down some 5.4 stuff then traversed back on the cliff to the belay between the pitches to rap out.

Overlooks Jordan Pond

Protection 

Small to Medium nuts and a couple cams.

Fixed bolt provides an anchor for the end of the first pitch, and we were unable to find a fixed anchor that was supposed to be there at the top of the second.

Photos of Moraviana Slideshow

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Cristin at top of Pitch 2 - the headwall part. Fu...	BETA PHOTO: Looking up the climb	BETA PHOTO: Looking down the climb.
top of p2