Moral Dilemma 

Yeah, what's up with removing that first bolt? The sandy-ness does not lend itself well with committing to that move. I couldn't commit and backed off. It seems like many of the anchors on that cliff band have glue on them to keep people from taking them. still one of the warmer spots on a cold day in st george.

My favorite in the gap! The missing first bolt does create quite a dillema..... Brave the scary beginning, and you will be rewarded!

This is a great climb. I think it's fairly easily identified in the book. The rating may be a bit too high though, but that's just my opinion.

Longer draws will reduce rope drag? How much drag can you possibly get on a 30' sport route? Anyhoo fun route.

The first bolt is high and doesn't afford a great clipping stance as the route is really overhanging at this point. A stick clip is a good idea.

i was staring at this and had my drill and bolts in my car and was about to re-add the first bolt(i hate reading about people complaining about old or missing bolts and nothing ever being done about it, takes 5 mins and $3).. anyways the more i looked at it the more i thought that re adding a first bolt would not help much... it really doesn't protect much of the climb other than preventing someone from rolling down the hill, you would however still deck. so i can kinda see why the first bolt was removed.. too many people trying to go for the second clip and taking nasty falls "trusting the first bolt". The "new" first bolt is very dicey to clip, but once clipped protects well. Maybe this is a climb that needs a stick clip? i wouldn't recommend trying to clip that first and i don't think adding the original first helps much either. I dunno, what is everyone else thoughts?

stick clip for the "onsight" - go for it on the redpoint. once you know the initial moves, getting to that first bolt with a draw pre-hung is fine.

there was a lot of stress put on the original first bolt. given where the belayer stands versus where the climbing is...
given all the falling, hanging, nature of the rock, etc; that bolt just got yarded on where it was.

someone re added the first bolt on this route. It was moved a few feet to the left and is actually in a much better position to protect a fall going for the 2nd.