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Moraine Spire

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5.8 route on Moraine Spire T 

Moraine Spire 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tater Tot on Apr 13, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The Moraine Spire in this photo is on the farthest...

Description 

The Moraine Spire is a slender pinnacle that lies on the west side of the Needles Eye Tunnel, very close to Bloody Spire. There are four known routes up the spire. Those who climb any route that starts on the east side (tunnel side) of Moraine Spire should beware - the rock quality can be poor due to the blasting done for the tunnel. Also, stay out of the way of unaware tourists in the tunnel. Perhaps this spire is best climbed early or late season. You might consider hiking in while the road is still closed.


Getting There 

From Sylvan Lake, drive along the Needles Highway until the road opens up to a parking lot. You'll know you're there if you see tourists walking around asking "Where's the Needle?" The road will curve to the left through a long tunnel. Park before the tunnel. The spire is the obvious tall pinnacle closest to the tunnel on the left side about 1/4 of the way through the tunnel.


Climbing Season


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Moraine Spire
Crumbly crack, crumbly jugs...crimper finish...you don't climb it...you survive it

5.8 route on Moraine Spire 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Moraine Spire
This route starts in a crack on the left side of the Needles Eye Tunnel. There is also a chimney on the east side which can be climbed. The crack is more on the southeast corner of the spire. Climb up this crack with poor quality rock caused by the road blast, working your way up and left. Be careful of jugs - they do break on this route. You'll get a good rest at a large flake which you can sling before continuing up the face following a small crack, moving slightly right and onto the aret...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Moraine Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Me after surviving Moraine Spire.
Me after surviving Moraine Spire.
We climbed it...you didn't.
We climbed it...you didn't.
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