The largest and most extraordinary peak on the east side of the Ruth Gorge is the Mooses Tooth. It is surrounded on all sides by steep ridges and faces making any ascent to the summit a technical challenge. Classic routes abound on this peak with some of the most popular being Ham and Eggs, Shaken Not Stirred and the Fifty Classic West Ridge. Beyond all of the snow and ice routes there is also the southwest face which is an alpine rock climbers dream. I'm unsure how many routes have been climbed up these faces but I do know that there is still a lot of first ascent potential.
Mooses Tooth is located on the east side of the Ruth Gorge north east of the Wisdom Tooth. It is boardered on the south west by the Root Canal Glacier and on the east by the Buckskin Glacier.
Browse More Classics in Moose's Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moose's Tooth:
Shaken not Stirred WI5 M5 Steep Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 15 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade V
Ham & Eggs WI4 M4 Steep Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade V
Featured Route For Moose's Tooth
Ham & Eggs WI4 M4 Steep Snow AK : Denali National Park : ... : Moose's Tooth
One of the best, some parties can do it in 4 hours some take two days. Short crux to enter the weakness propper and then steep snow and the intermittent ice pitch till mid height. Then three to four great solid ice pitches to access the upper bowles. Rappels were set for for 100' raps when we did her. But doubles should be mandatory to get down in any kind of decent time. ...[more] Browse More Classics in AK