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Moose's Tooth
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Ham & Eggs 
Shaken not Stirred 
Unforgiven, The 

Moose's Tooth 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,300'
Page Views: 24,672. Good page?   
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Jun 12, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


Mooses Tooths summit is the tallest peak to the ri...

Description 

The largest and most extraordinary peak on the east side of the Ruth Gorge is the Mooses Tooth. It is surrounded on all sides by steep ridges and faces making any ascent to the summit a technical challenge. Classic routes abound on this peak with some of the most popular being Ham and Eggs, Shaken Not Stirred and the Fifty Classic West Ridge. Beyond all of the snow and ice routes there is also the southwest face which is an alpine rock climbers dream. I'm unsure how many routes have been climbed up these faces but I do know that there is still a lot of first ascent potential.


Getting There 

Mooses Tooth is located on the east side of the Ruth Gorge north east of the Wisdom Tooth. It is boardered on the south west by the Root Canal Glacier and on the east by the Buckskin Glacier.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moose's Tooth:
Shaken not Stirred   WI5 M5 Steep Snow     Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 15 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade V   
Ham & Eggs   WI4 M4 Steep Snow     Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade V   
Browse More Classics in Moose's Tooth

Featured Route For Moose's Tooth
Ham and Eggs,

Ham & Eggs WI4 M4 Steep Snow  AK : Denali National Park : ... : Moose's Tooth
One of the best, some parties can do it in 4 hours some take two days. Short crux to enter the weakness propper and then steep snow and the intermittent ice pitch till mid height. Then three to four great solid ice pitches to access the upper bowles. Rappels were set for for 100' raps when we did her. But doubles should be mandatory to get down in any kind of decent time. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK


Photos of Moose's Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
Joe Mucci on the first pitch of Ham & Eggs, at least i got the second pitch. May 2007

Joe Mucci on the first pitch of Ham & Eggs, at lea...

Mt Huntington in all her glory from the Root Canal Glacier

Mt Huntington in all her glory from the Root Canal...

Somewhere up there on the Mooses Tooth

Somewhere up there on the Mooses Tooth

Top of Mt Wake from the Root Canal

Top of Mt Wake from the Root Canal

Top of the Mooses Tooth in a storm.

Top of the Mooses Tooth in a storm.

Crossing the Ruth towards the Moose's Tooth.

Crossing the Ruth towards the Moose's Tooth.