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Moose's Tooth

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Ham & Eggs 
Shaken not Stirred 
Unforgiven, The 

Moose's Tooth  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,300'
Location: 62.96972, -150.61126 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 36,949
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Jun 12, 2007
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Mooses Tooths summit is the tallest peak to the ri...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

The largest and most extraordinary peak on the east side of the Ruth Gorge is the Mooses Tooth. It is surrounded on all sides by steep ridges and faces making any ascent to the summit a technical challenge. Classic routes abound on this peak with some of the most popular being Ham and Eggs, Shaken Not Stirred and the Fifty Classic West Ridge. Beyond all of the snow and ice routes there is also the southwest face which is an alpine rock climbers dream. I'm unsure how many routes have been climbed up these faces but I do know that there is still a lot of first ascent potential.

Getting There 

Mooses Tooth is located on the east side of the Ruth Gorge north east of the Wisdom Tooth. It is boardered on the south west by the Root Canal Glacier and on the east by the Buckskin Glacier.

Climbing Season



Weather station 35.3 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moose's Tooth:
Shaken not Stirred   WI5 M5 Steep Snow     Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 15 pitches, 3000'   
Ham & Eggs   WI4 M4 Steep Snow     Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000'   
Browse More Classics in Moose's Tooth

Featured Route For Moose's Tooth
Shaken not stirred

Shaken not Stirred WI5 M5 Steep Snow  AK : Denali National Park : ... : Moose's Tooth
Sweetnees up the West Face a step up from Ham & Eggs. Drop down to the true base for a full value experince or head up from the high point on the glaicer and climb an arching 5.8 ish pitch to enter the weakness. Navigate steep snow and a few cruxy sections till "the Narrows" 500-600 feet of thin technical mixed climbing. Make your plays and head on to Englishman's col. Decend via fixed anchors with double ropes. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Moose's Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
Crossing the Ruth towards the Moose's Tooth.
Crossing the Ruth towards the Moose's Tooth.
Mt Huntington in all her glory from the Root Canal...
Mt Huntington in all her glory from the Root Canal...
Top of the Mooses Tooth in a storm.
Top of the Mooses Tooth in a storm.
Somewhere up there on the Mooses Tooth
Somewhere up there on the Mooses Tooth
Top of Mt Wake from the Root Canal
Top of Mt Wake from the Root Canal
Joe Mucci on the first pitch of Ham & Eggs, at lea...
Joe Mucci on the first pitch of Ham & Eggs, at lea...
Moose's Tooth
BETA PHOTO: Moose's Tooth

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