Moosedog Tower is one of the high points in Indian Cove, and offers great views of the area, as well as some of the longer climbs in Indian Cove. The highlights are the climbs near the Direct South Face (5.9) (which turns a great roof!), including Wandering Winnebago (5.8+) and Third Time's a Charm (5.10b). Tranquility (5.6) is the easiest way up to the summit, but for the most part it's an awkward, unpleasant climb.
Moosedog is the last formation on your right as you head out towards the western end of the family campsite area. You have to wander through a campsite or two to get to the base of the south buttress, where Tranquility and Direct South Face begin. A number of other routes ascend the steeper southwest face in the gully to the left of the formation (which doubles as the descent gully).
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moosedog Tower:
Wandering Winnebago 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Direct South Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Third Time's a Charm 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Moosedog Tower
Third Time's a Charm 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Moosedog Tower
A short way up the gully to the left of the Direct South Face (5.9) is a diagonal crack that runs across most of this face. Climb up some rather poor rock to attain this crack, (don't let this disuade you the rest of the route is stellar!). Follow the crack with a couple of difficult moves near the top, one protected by a bolt. Belay where the route intersects Racing The Sun (AKA Lucky Charms. Continue on that route to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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