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Fickle Finger of Fate
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Moonwalker T 

Moonwalker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 130', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+ [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, Marc Hirt, Alison Sheets October 10, 1989
Season: North facing route
Page Views: 1,022
Submitted By: Matt Pickren on Mar 16, 2008

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Description 

Moonwalker climbs the crack system to the large shelf then up the face to the left hand ridge to the summit.

Pitch 1- climb the flaring crack 40 feet to the shelf. Belay on natural gear. 5.9

Pitch 2- climb around 6 1/4 studs to a 3/8 bolt with hanger. Two more pins lead to more studs and free climbing moves onto the ridge. Free climbing is protected by 1 bolts and about 5 more studs. Then traverse around the right of the summit block and mantle to the top. Most studs had washers and machine nuts on them.

Descent- rap the north face with 2 60 meter ropes. 1 70 meter rope will get you down. 1 60 meter rope will get you very close, you may need to downclimb a couple of easy moves.

Protection 

Bring a single set of cams for pitch 1. All you need for pitch 2 in many medium wires for protection over the studs and washers and nuts. Quickdraws (x5) free biners (x10).


Photos of Moonwalker Slideshow Add Photo
Bill G on pitch 1. Pitch 2 climbs the left side of the wall above.
Bill G on pitch 1. Pitch 2 climbs the left side of...
on the way in
on the way in
Pitch 2. There are maybe 5 more studs after the seconds pin before the free climbing starts.
Pitch 2. There are maybe 5 more studs after the se...
approaching via the ridge
approaching via the ridge
love it...
love it...
Looking back (west) towards Potash road from the base of Moonwalker. The large fin behind me is a good landmark when accessing the Fickle Finger from the powerlines. However it blocks the tower from sight.
Looking back (west) towards Potash road from the b...
lost... on the wrong side
lost... on the wrong side
the 4th class stuff
the 4th class stuff
on top
on top
use a 70
use a 70
no
no
Appreciating the late afternoon shade. (and the new hardware!)
Appreciating the late afternoon shade. (and the ne...

Comments on Moonwalker Add Comment
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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 26, 2008

Powerful Jim and I did this thing yesterday. We had been told by a friend that the 1/4 inch studs were sketchy... his partner broke one under body weight. For this reason we went prepared to replace some. I tested the first one off the ledge and it snapped-off on the first tug... dido second one. I was then able to break every studd (Funkenss just broke them) with less than three taps of the hammer. Not whacks, taps. We ended up replacing all the studs with 3.8 studs and a couple of halfies to keep you off the deck. It actually has fewer fixed pieces now, but stronger ones. Good, clean anchor on top.
Some things to keep in mind:
The 4th class approach is sandy with very dire consequences. Keeps the muggles away.
The single cam rack is perfect, but that pitch is also sandy and has a spooky start. A small nut of large micro nut will probably fit in a pin scar for the sandbox move off the ground.
While the means of gaining this summit are less than inspirational, the views from the top and the close-to-town-adventure quality make it worthy.
Moamar Bonswali managed to run from his car to our fixed line, jug it, and hit the summit, in less than 40 minutes. Solid effort.
By Matt Pickren
May 15, 2008

Sam, you must be really really strong to break those studs because all of my climbing partners (Ben, Brad and Bill) all tell me I am fat (especially Ben, he can be rude) and the studs held me!

Wow, scary to think about when those were all I had for gear between me and that big ledge.

Thanks so much for all your hard work you put into keeping climbing in the desert safe. We all really appreciate your time and effort, as do those who like having us around. You're the man!, man.

-Matt
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 15, 2008

Powerful Jim has been climbing around here since the Colorado Plateau was a coastline. He was completely shocked about how easy they snapped... you were on A5 dude, you just didn't know it.
By Ben Kiessel
Aug 21, 2011

That 4th class to get to the base looked sketch. Luckily someone left me a fixed line.
Thanks for fixing the route up Sam!
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 30, 2012

first off- thanks sam for the bomber hardware. this thing is a blast. what a fun tower and so close to town. we did not take the "normal" approach. instead we hiked the ridge to the right at 5.5+++D. much cleaner than the gully and it takes you right to the tower. taylor took the sharpie on the first pitch and placed maybe 5 pieces of gear. i took the second. used i think maybe 20 draws and 9 rivet hangers. stellar good pro. drake cleaned it up in tennis shoes. 70 m rope for sure. i would not use a single 60. we hiked down the gully to get out. the 4th class didn't look to bad to me but there was a fixed line so we used it. crazy good fun!!!