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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 4,788
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008  with updates from Alex Fletcher

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second bolt on Moonshiner.


A newer route, still some loose rock on this one. From the big split tree hop up on the rock and head right-ish up the slab past a few good huecos and some awkward moves. The route steepens considerably towards the top to a decent finish.


From the entrance/chopping block area, traverse left under the roof and squeeze past the big split tree. Start right there in a small space between some rocks. The second to the right of the five routes on the face, left of Unknown.


Five or six bolts to open shuts

Update 5/5/16 [Per Alex Fletcher]: The anchor on this route has been changed. I climbed it on 05/05/2016, and there was only one bolt with a ring on it. Apparently, the old bolts were removed and the holes filled in. Working a few feet to the right allows one to use the two bolts with rings that belong to the route "unknown."

Photos of Moonshiner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the pockets on "Moonshiner."
Working the pockets on "Moonshiner."
Rock Climbing Photo: Moonshiner, light 5.9, Malibu Creek state park. Ke...
BETA PHOTO: Moonshiner, light 5.9, Malibu Creek state park. Ke...
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin at the top of moonshiner
Justin at the top of moonshiner
Rock Climbing Photo: Frank just below the crux on Moonshiner (5.9).
Frank just below the crux on Moonshiner (5.9).

Comments on Moonshiner Add Comment
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By Dean Olson
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My first outdoor lead. Good everything to last bolt, then a less-than-solid move to the right, then a big mantle on to the tiny shelf that is the end of the route.
By Mike N.
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 2, 2015

Anyone know what's up with the anchor on this route? I was here in October 2014 and climbed it, and there was a nice 2-bolt anchor at the top that looked to be in fine shape. As of this morning (Jan. 1, 2015) there's a single bolt with a rap ring, and the holes where the previous bolts were are plugged with epoxy. I moved right onto the anchor for...whatever the next line right is, but that made for some interesting cleaning on rappel afterwards.
By brucy
Apr 14, 2015

We did it too- 04/15. Still has only a single bolt anchor. Makes your wonder as to the logic of whoever took the second bolt out and left it for so long with but one!
By Wei-Li
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 6, 2015

Was just there 8/5/2015 and there is still a single bolt with a rap ring. Anyone got a drill?
By IanRB
Jan 18, 2016

Was there yesterday (1/17/16) and there is two rap rings at the top. No longer a single bolt.
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
May 6, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I just climbed this on 05/05/2016 and the one hanger with a ring was still the only anchor I saw. The anchor to the right for the route 'unknown' is within a few feet to the right though. That's the one I used.

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