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 ADVANCED
Land of the Rising Moon
Routes Sorted
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Analog 
Blade Runner T 
Cross of Iron T 
Drainpipe Left Exit T 
Master of Sport T 
Moonrise Variation T 
Straight and Narrow T 
Unsorted Routes:

Moonrise Variation 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Matous, Scott Heywood? Jim Howe & Eric Breitenburger, 1985/86?
Page Views: 1,548
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Jun 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Arjun Dongre seconding Moontide, with the Valley M...
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is a Vedauwoo Classic! It has all sizes of crack climbing to a technical and hair-raising, face climbing finish.

This starts fists then widens to offwidth just before a nice hands to thin hands splitter shoots straight up the imposing "headwall". Start on the route Moontide with the fist and offwidth crack. When the wide crack turns horizontal, start up the vertical hand to thin hand crack that shoots straight up the wall, this is The Moonrise Variation. Moontide continues along the wide crack as it turns horizontal and finishes on an obvious offwidth, thereby avoiding the beautiful splitter and face finish of Moonrise. Moontide is easier but not as aesthetic (5.10a).


Location 

Just down and left from Straight and Narrow is a very obvious, wide crack that arcs to the right with the thin hands splitter of Moonrise branching off and going directly up to the anchors.


Protection 

1 of each; yellow TCU, Orange TCU or #0.5 Camalot, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot and #2 Camalot. 2 or 3 #3 Camalots, 1 new #4 Camalot, 1 new #5 Camalot. The yellow and orange TCUs offer bomber pro just before the face finish. Brand new, stainless anchors with chains on top.



Photos of Moonrise Variation Slideshow Add Photo
The Skipper in action. <br />Photo by Skip Harper.
The Skipper in action.
Photo by Skip Harper.
Zach Keeney leading Moon Tide, 10a.
Zach Keeney leading Moon Tide, 10a.
Comments on Moonrise Variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 9, 2008

I agree Moontide is not as aesthetic as Moonrise and technically easier; however, don't be fooled the final offwidth after the traverse on Moontide caught me by surprise, and I wished that I had chosen the direct variation. My only suggestion if you decide on moontide is to bring a #6 Camalot or wider, you won't regret having it for the last 20 feet.

By Johan Grahnen
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 27, 2009

Be somewhat careful when exiting the finger crack at the end -- the flake that forms it moves, particularly if you load e.g. a cam placed in it.

By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 31, 2009

WARNING: the rock in the pod about halfway up moves as well. It actually moves with ease, whether from a loaded cam or just a foot jam will cause it to shift from one side to the other, causing cams to tip out and fingers to get stuck.

By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
Aug 26, 2012

Awesome route. Sick position.

By Jim Howe
From: Salt Lake city
Mar 6, 2013

Eric Breitenburger and I climbed and named this variation in the summer of 1985 or '86. It needed a lichen cleaning and friable flakes peeled off. This variation probably had not been climbed before because of the condition, but one never knows.

By David Bruneau
From: St. John's, Newfoundland, Cana
Sep 4, 2013

IMO, the first few feet of the offwidth finish on Moontide were harder than the crux of Mainstreet and probably had the sharpest crystals out of all the routes I did in Vedauwoo over a 3 week stay. Definitely agree about the #6 Camalot, but sling it long or back clean it after bumping it because the anchors are 15 feet to the left of the offwidth.