Moonlight Buttress Rock Climbing
|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
is the obvious buttress on the left just after Angel's Landing
. It resembles a huge pillar resting against the wall. The wall faces almost due east.
The most common route on the wall is the The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)
that takes a line straight up the middle (the Grand Dihedral is obvious from the road).
At the base, be careful as the 3rd class ledges are easy to climb on but a tumble down could be serious.
There is a ledge after P5 of the Lowe/Weiss
route that makes a great bivy if you have a portaledge. The descent is a casual hike down a paved path. Once you top out, hike straight back and you cannot miss the path. The path is most exciting (yes, seriously) path I have ever been on. Try to save some daylight to enjoy the hike down. It would be worthy of hiking by itself. The descent is about 3 miles down.
You can take the shuttle to the Big Bend stop (same as Prodigal Sun
), or if you have a cool driver they will drop you off right in front of the trailhead. From the shuttle stop, jog up the road about 100 yards to the trailhead. There are trail markers posted to follow. To cross the creek, look for a wide area with islands, and you can cross with only getting your ankles wet. The approach takes maybe 30 minutes.
The Angel's Landing trail.
Weather station 3.9 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Moonlight Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Moonlight Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Moonlight Buttress:
Sheer Lunacy 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
C1 Trad, Aid, Grade IV
Featured Route For Moonlight Buttress
Sheer Lunacy (Free) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b UT
: Zion National Park
: Moonlight Buttress
Sheer Lunacy is a great, fairly mellow "big" wall climb in Zion, located just left of the much more popular Moonlight Buttress. It offers enjoyable climbing on every pitch and the cruxes are fairly brief; though it's just as long as its neighbor, it is much less tiring of a day.P1: Begin as for Moonlight Buttress by climbing a long 5.7/5.8 groove system to a ledge with a tree. Belay here.P2: Instead of moving right and into Moonlight's 5.10c pitch, head straight up a vegetated, right...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Several parties on Moonlight Buttress (3/23/10).
climbers on moonlight butress,photo taken from top...
Unknown Party on Moonlight. Photo: Doug Davis
BETA PHOTO: moonlight buttress area topo
Unknown Party on Moonlight. Photo: Doug Davis.
Moonlight Buttress from the road.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 20, 2003
I wrote a trip report from this route 5 years ago that can be found at naclassics.com/climbs/moonlite... The facts stated therein hold. The opinions expressed about certain things may have expired.