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Moonlight Buttress in March
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By Josh Higgins
Feb 16, 2012

As someone who is trying to free the route, I understand why people are saying it is no longer an aid route. I've been stuck under a party with a ledge set up in the middle of the route. It was frustrating, to say the least. We started the route early, and blitzed up under them in a couple of hours. Unfortunately, they wasted hours of daylight with their feet dangling over the side of their ledge until we were at the belay underneath them, and then started climbing not giving us the option to pass. All they had to do was wait another 30 minutes and let us go by. They took about 2-3 hours to get halfway up the next pitch, and we bailed. Their third day on route, the team bailed and we were able to complete the route (with a few falls) that day with them out of they way.

The reality is that both free and aid parties drool over this climb. However, I think it's possible for multiple teams to enjoy the route. If you're slow and learning, please be respectful and let other much much much faster teams pass. Also, consider the "fix and fire" method since you'll move faster, have less stuff to haul, and hopefully you and others on the wall might enjoy it better!

FYI, I've tried the route twice, ground up, no tick marks. Not rapping in and ticking it like someone accused free climbers of doing above... Just sayin!

Josh


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 16, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

johnL wrote:
reality

i think there should be permadraws on the whole thing


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 16, 2012

caughtinside wrote:
Slightly different note here... Have you guys seen the movie Big Stone? It has some amazing footage of Jason Campbell onsighting MB like 8-10 years ago. Haven't seen it in a long time but it still stands out as some of the best trad footage I've ever seen. The movie also has Lynn Hill Free NIAD and Tommy Caldwell on the Salathe.


Hells yeah! That footage is really good, I think it's more like 15+ years ago. I've tried to find a copy of this on DVD for years and never had luck. My college outdoor rec program had a copy on VHS way back when.

I still remember one part where he's wicked pumped and starts sprinting for what he thinks is a jug, gets there and OH SHIT!!!! Not. A. Jug. You see his eyes get about twice as big. Great stuff.


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By Adam Baxter
From Estes Park, CO
Feb 16, 2012

This does look pretty cool.

Big Stone on DVD


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By Bill M
From Fort Collins, CO
Feb 16, 2012
suffering

So what time of the year does MB start seeing lots of traffic?


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By atrau
Feb 17, 2012

April is when is starts to see people on it almost everyday, until mid-end of May.

Rob


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