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Elephant Rock
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Hundredth Monkey, The S 
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Moongerms T 
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Sky T 
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Worst Error, Right T 

Moongerms 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Bachar and Werner Braun (May, '82)
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: Bryan G on Oct 18, 2012

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Wolfgang Güllich cranking on Moongerms.

Taken fro...

Description 

This is an incredible (and incredibly hard!) trad climb on the west face of Elephant rock. Although a bit crusty with lichen in places, the rock quality is perfect. It follows a thin crack but also utilizes many knobs on the surrounding face, which makes for fascinating climbing on a gently overhanging wall. It starts off the same highest ledge as Hairline, minus crawling out on a tree limb, which makes an approach from below a bit more reasonable. It can also be approached from above however, and for more detailed approach and descent beta read the Hairline page.

The climb starts up the tiny crack in golden rock and doesn't really let off for the first 50ft or so. I'll admit this climb is a bit over my head and I only gave a lame attempt at freeing it before I prussiked past the starting portion. This climb has a bit of a reputation as being both scary and a sandbag, and I don't think it's had more than a few ascents.

Anyways, after a bunch of fierce tips jamming and crimping on knobs, the crack starts to open to accept hand jams and the knobs get bigger as well. Then the angle gradually declines until you're scampering up an easy slab. You move to the left, joining a different crack system. The final obstacle (not really an "obstacle" if you're burly enough to pull the start) is a cool 5.10 traverse on good finger locks when the crack suddenly banks left through a steeper bulge at the end.


Protection 

Pro to 2" with plenty of smaller stuff.



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