Moondance  5.6

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Todd Swain, 1982 Submitted By:  JSH on Feb 13, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Moondance and its neighbor Sundance are two genuinely enjoyable routes on beautiful tight-white rock. They're relatively high on the cliff, at what can be a sunny warm spot on a calm winter day. And because they're fairly far down the cliff, you'll likely have them to yourself.

Both routes start from the same little platform nestled among pine trees. To get there, take the last trail up to the main cliff, as for Wasp. At the cliff, go right, under the big mound right of Wasp, then up the gully to the cliff. Keep on following a trail along the cliff, up and up, until you're forced to step right around some trees. You should be at the start of the route, at a small pedestal/clearing above some talus below.

P1: Most parties use the same easy 5.6 (no pro) walk directly up to the tree as for Sundance. Williams describes a distinct pitch, but I have not climbed it.

P2: From the tree, make a few big easy moves to gain the rock behind. Move right, up a few moves, then an easy airy traverse left to gain a face below an overhang. Aim for the left side of the overhang, up into the left-facing corner it forms, then step right and up. Wander on up through easier rock and a final groove above to the trees.

Rappel from the Sundance tree to climber's right.

P2 was fairly dirty and had some loose rock when I last climbed it. The pitch wanders a lot as well - even with doubles, rope drag was considerable.

Protection 

Standard rack, perhaps more in the hand-sized range.