|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Evans and Craig Fry - 1986, Direct start: Darrell Hensel and Dave Evans - 1986|
|Submitted By:||Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008|
|Comments on Moondance||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Mike Graham
Jul 16, 2008
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
What a great route!
The crux is quite a crank on a near vertical bulge and there’s very little for your feet. This route keeps coming at you. In Hensel’s own words, “There’s a party between every bolt” and you can believe it.
The initial work that Dave and Craig put into it is quite impressive also. My suggestion is to be sure you had your “Oats” the morning before you go to tick off this show.
By Craig Fry
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I spotted the route when I was taking Lisa Knade, and Sonia up Sundance. I planned for me and DE to do it the next weekend, But DE had Flying Circus planned for that weekend. So first we did that, and me and DE had a little problem, because I was impatient when belaying Marge on the 5.11d face section, sorry Marge.
But after the hell, I did get DE to the start, and the route was fantastic.
Going out on that open face, placing bolt after bolt, one of my best loved moments in climbing.
Don't bother with 5.12a direct start, I am still upset at DE for getting Henny to lead it for him, and leaving me out in the cold once again. It was my route idea, one of the best routes at Suicide, my route name, and I dragged DE to the base, yet he finishes it off with Henny.!! I did not appreciate DE for this add ON. Why couldn't he get me to come along, as part of the team???
But the one funny thing about the route, is that Largo was walking at the base, and saw us up on the route, and yelled "send down a rope. so I can come up and do the FA with you guys"
We yell back "no largo, the rope won't reach, sorry" as we giggled!!
By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Apr 8, 2011