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 ADVANCED
The Millstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Tie Die S 
Yuppie Love S 

Moon Walk 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: J. Haisely, K. Maas, 1989
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: grk10vq on Mar 23, 2009

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Moon Walk

Act I: Prologue 


"What's in a name? that which we call a route by any other name would climb as sweet;"

Well of course it would, the appropriately named Moon Walk is just that--an airy defiance of Newton's Law.
While a space suit is not required, you'll feel like you're wearing moon boots when pulling the crux of this cosmic line.

  • Scene I: Starting off on shaky ground, Moon Walk becomes very fun, revealing edge after edge of blocky Gunks style climbing. Follow a line of three generously spaced bolts to gain some very alien terrain.
  • Scene II: Enter CRUX. A comforting rest allows ample time for contemplation of your approaching moon walk. A sequence of far out and bewildering moves (grovel) get you up and left to some friendlier terrain.
  • Scene III: Past the crux, fight the pump and ascend up and slightly left past two or three more bolts to an anchor.

Exeunt.

END SCENE

Act II: Location 


Moon Walk sits just right of Stong Arm with the Lads and is the next route up trail from Earthling. Traveling up and along the base of The Millstone you'll reach a huge pine tree with two large boulders blocking the trail. Climb over these boulders to regain the trail and reach the base of Moon Walk

Act III: Protection 


Seven or Eight Bolts to a two bolt anchor. Slings are very helpful for the anchor as the bolts are slightly uneven and just above the cliffs rim. At this time, the anchor consists of two bolts, slings, and rap rings.


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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
May 17, 2014

Lots of these climbs need bolt replacements and the anchors on this one needs new slings - so if you are going to get on it bring new slings. Moon Walk has a lot of personality. The first bolt is way high so don't blow it. Techy face climbing will lead you to a big rest before launching into the left trending crux. Nasty slopey crimps with disappearing feet. I was thrilled to get thru it and get to some bigger holds. But wait its not over, you gotta fight the pump with jugs and small slopers up over the top! Happy I made it!