Moon River 5.11 A2-
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 A2- [details] |
| FA: | Josh Thompson and Andrew Gram, April 2011 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | J. Thompson on Apr 7, 2011 |
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Forward Lookout Tower
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Description Pitch #1: Start up towards a short wide slot at the base of the obvious corner system overhead. Pull some tough liebackish moves to get yourself into the slot. Continue climbing the corner system above. When you reach a white bulge, find a bolt and move around to the right. Climb past 2 fixed pitons. Then head right across a short slab section to gain the anchor at the base of another corner system. This pitch will go clean, and maybe free. 5.11 A2-, 140ft.
Pitch #2: Climb up the obvious corner above. Start with a few free moves to gain the varnished corner. Pass 1 fixed piton. When the varnish ends move around the bulge to the left. A few more moves gets you into a short chimney section. Climb up and onto the HUGE ledge on the right. This pitch will go clean easily, free is doubtful. 5.8 A2-, 100ft.
Pitch #3: Climb up the final summit spire. There are multiple bolts to lead the way. 5.9 A1. 60ft.
Rappel the route to descend. All anchors are bomber.
Location The route is located on the Forward Lookout tower. This tower looks over the mouth of Mee canyon, from its lefthand side (looking up canyon). It is easily visible from the river and is a 5-10 minute walk from camp.
The tower was first climbed via a different route by Dougald Macdonald, Randy Day, and Dave Goldstein. ENJOY!
Protection Nuts 1.5 sets. No brass.
Cams:
2-3 each:
Black and Blue Aliens.
4-5:
Green Aliens.
3-4 each:
Yellow alien to #2 camalot.
2 each:
#3-#5 camalot.
1:
#6 camalot.
Pitch #1
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Pitch #2
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The top of the very thin section on Pitch #2...
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Forward Lookout Tower
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Cleaning P1
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Leading P2
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Leading P3
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Leading P3
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On the summit
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 7, 2011
| A fun route in a cool setting.
All anchors are 1/2 by at least 3.5 inch.
I mention that the pitchs will go clean, that is to say that you do NOT need to bring a hammer or any pins on this route. The only reason it's been given an "A" rating is that we did place pitons and bolts on the first ascent. Every pin we placed was left fixed. I also mention that the pitchs might go free. Pitch 1 is quite likely to go free, probably around 5.12-. Pitch 2 in unlikely to go free, but wouldn't be impossible. Pitch 3 could probably be freed, maybe in the 5.10+ to 5.11 range.
The line is striking and needed to be climbed.
The route name(Andrew named it) comes from the response elicited from rafters when the Amtrac train goes past...
josh |
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