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I found the route to have 2 tough spots, one right off the start, and the crux was coming out over the bulge above the last horizontal crack.
If you look at the photo you can find Moon Line just to the right of the crack.
Bolts to bolted anchors. The first bolt is very high off the ground.
|By Jeremy Jones|
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
You can take a pretty bad lead fall if you fall before clipping the 2nd bolt. I recommend placing a cam before you reach it. It feels harder than a 5.9 if you are 5'9" and don't know the moves over the top bulge. Once you know where the moves are it is easier, but for an on-site I felt the crux was more 5.10a (the top bulge). If you veer left and use the crack you can use some nuts for pro to avoid a pendulum.