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Leah Sandvoss on Moonjuice (5.11c), Upper Beach, C...
Moon Juice is a classic bit of sport climbing sitting high above the church, and for the grade stands out as one of the better sport pitches in Sedona. If it's cold out, this south facing route is guaranteed to warm you up one way or another.
Look for the overhanging arete with huecos and large rails! Shares start with Red Sky. Start up vertical face and figure out the tricky low crux, and then pick your way past a heavily pocketed band of stone. Take a quick break at the base of the overhanging arÍte, a few deep breaths I suppose, then bust out the little entrance boulder problem... Climb up past amazing features on the arete and holds out right to the last crux at the final bulge. Finish up crimpy slab to the original anchors of Red Sky.
To the left of the mini tower.
Bolts, chain anchor
BETA PHOTO: Moon Juice in red with draws hanging...
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 14, 2013
FYI this route is misnamed "Green Juice" in the new Sedona Rocks guide.