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Fun and aesthetic little crack, although dirt seems to continuously funnel itself down the route.
A huge roof (protected by a 3 to 3-1/2" piece) is bypassed to the right on great holds. From here, delicate climbing up a thin crack leads to the summit.
The actual crux is near the top, on a tricky finger-lock. Place a decent nut and lose the finger lock, or take the finger-lock and forego the protection.
Small nuts and cams up to a 3-1/2" piece.
New fixed anchors were placed on top in 2006 (two 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolts with rings).
|By Alex Bury|
From: Ojai CA
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Great route, really fun lead, and the crack protects really well. The two bolts at the top are a very nice addition too. I used to have to extend an anchor point off bushes to set up the TR on this one; now there are two nice bolts perfectly placed for the TR. No rings or chains though. Not sure if someone swiped 'em or what.
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 18, 2013
Swiped two different times, actually.