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 ADVANCED
Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bolts T,TR 
Blown Out T 
Chummin' for Splatter S 
Clean Sweep T,TR 
Crack, The T 
From the Ashes S 
I Love L.A. S 
Magic Feather S 
Moon Doggies T 
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 
Sob Story T 
Teetering TR 

Moon Doggies 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Reese Martin (solo), 1986
Page Views: 744
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006

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Hand jams all the way up after the over hang. Anot...

Description 

Fun and aesthetic little crack, although dirt seems to continuously funnel itself down the route.

A huge roof (protected by a 3 to 3-1/2" piece) is bypassed to the right on great holds. From here, delicate climbing up a thin crack leads to the summit.

The actual crux is near the top, on a tricky finger-lock. Place a decent nut and lose the finger lock, or take the finger-lock and forego the protection.

Protection 

Small nuts and cams up to a 3-1/2" piece.

New fixed anchors were placed on top in 2006 (two 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolts with rings).


Photos of Moon Doggies Slideshow Add Photo
Route topo for Moon Doggies, at the Foot in Ojai.
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Moon Doggies, at the Foot in Ojai.
The crux section is easy and fun.
The crux section is easy and fun.
Good rest spot before the crux at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Good rest spot before the crux at the top.

Comments on Moon Doggies Add Comment
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By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route, really fun lead, and the crack protects really well. The two bolts at the top are a very nice addition too. I used to have to extend an anchor point off bushes to set up the TR on this one; now there are two nice bolts perfectly placed for duty. No rings or chains though. Not sure if someone swiped 'em or what.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 18, 2013

Swiped two different times, actually.