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 ADVANCED
Sun-top Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can't Can't T 
May Fly T,TR 
Moon Beam T 
Sucker, The T 
Sun Top T 

Moon Beam 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alex A. TR, first lead unknown
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Burt midway up Moon Beam.. Got my hands on the se...

Description 

Moon Beam is a fairly classic route for the grade, and not your typical DL face climbing. Climb the line of conspicuous horizontals in between The Sucker and Sun Top. A dramatic dropknee at the top makes an otherwise stopper move quite doable. Nice holds. Pretend your in the Gunks for a bit.

Protection 

Tricky gear in the horizontals. Probably want to TR it first and suss the gear.


Photos of Moon Beam Slideshow Add Photo
"Moon Beam" climbs the face between the cracks.
BETA PHOTO: "Moon Beam" climbs the face between the cracks.
Chris at the start.
Chris at the start.
Stewart on Moon Beam
Stewart on Moon Beam

Comments on Moon Beam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Aug 26, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

A safe lead if you utilize the crack to the left, small solo if you don't ( I didn't) hence my "R" rating.

Good gear in the horizontals with a final deadpoint to a sloping ledge. The fall would be pretty good but safe. I didn't encounter a needed drop knee.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 27, 2011

Hey Nick, I was just wondering the other day if anyone gets over and does these routes. I always found the place to be a nice getaway from the crowds. Heads up lead for sure. The drop knee allows you to do the final move static on lead.
By Tradoholic
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

We used a small side-pull left of the rounded arete while standing in the first horizontal to make the move to the middle horizontal, on route? This was a reachy move as I could stand up and reach the jug but my partner had to dyno. It looked way hard with out the side-pull.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 6, 2011

Anyone have beta for the final moves from the large jugs near the top. I just could get the last 6ft of this climb done.
By Tradoholic
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

In the crack there's a left hand in-cut hold, it's kinda like a flake in the crack. Get that and paste your right foot on the nice flake hold you use to get to the horizontal, then dead point (me) or drop knee (JJ) for a flat, pad and a half hold with your right hand.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 7, 2011

Ugh didn't see any holds to the left besides that crappy slopey sidepull above the jugs. Very frustrating sitting on those jugs for 5 minutes and seeing nothing. John and I ended up trying to dyno to the next rail lol. Great climb though!
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2011

I think above Nick means the second horizontal and not the first. I figured out a sequence that climbs the right side of the face off the first horizontal to get to the second horizontal and avoid the darn sketchy long reach move (with bad feet)that Nick is talking about. It feels about maybe 2 letter grades easier and way less of a barn door move. The exit move off the third horizontal feels like the crux to me. Yard off the small side pull on the right and hike the right foot super high into the horizontal... place the left on the neat little pointy flake hold Nick mentions (or just a bit higher and to the left is another flattish spot) and at the same time transition the left hand from the positive incut in ther horizontal (again Nick mentions it) into a undercling... stabilize and then release the left and reach for the slopey flat spot at arms length.... brilliant stout move and way fun.... clean falls on the lead....
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 13, 2011

Thanks Burt, I was afraid that small right side pull was the beta...
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Oct 11, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A real gem! I thought it protects well, i did place a nut in the first finger lock off to the left. It was the only option to protect that first deadpoint, which was a low percentage move for me. After that it is hard movement between good gear all the way to the top out. Being short i had to work different beta than the rest of the group but i figured out a way to by pass that huge deadpoint midway up the route.
By Erol Altay
Oct 3, 2012

I tried to kill Spence by yarding on the gnarled grips in the finishing horizontal before the top. They came out, one in my hand the other down the rope on his foot. DL is pretty solid overall, but the earth does move on occasion.