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Monzino route (on North Tower)
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British WI1 Easy Snow
Avg: 2.9 from 9
votes
Routes in Torres del Paine Group
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"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2+ R |
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"Waiting for Godot" East Face Torre Central T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b M6 Steep Snow |
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Monzino route (on North Tower) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI1 Easy Snow |
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South African Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | -51.19075, -73.84903 |
| FA: | 1958 Jean Bich, Pierino Pession, Leonardo Carrel, Camillo Pelissier. Named after Guido Monzino who funded the italians. |
| Page Views: | 11,224 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Hans Florine on Jan 29, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Alex R, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Start Early. 4AM. From the Cole Bitch, youll be in the base of Monzino Route or Bonnington Route. Left is Monzino. 5.10 A1. Depending on your skill could be 6 pitches or 9. Pitches 4 & 6 go around red granite blocks , so find the crack system.
https://svpatagonia.com/advanced/topos/
The last pitch is a Slab with a few run outs but the quality if the granite is remarkable.
Rappel via the same route or connect with the north arete. Longer rappels tho.
Hans Florine 2010: The first and second pitch out of the notch, ( see approach.), is the easy 5.10 pitch. then the rest of the pitches, about 5 to7 of them, wind around giant features, meandering there way to the summit block. On the summit block is a fun 5.9 face climb. there is something on the top that you can rap off of, I forget what it was.
Location
long 1500 foot 45 degree angle plus snow slope to get to notch between North and Middle Towers. Probable that you will have to do a tool or three movements with an ice tool to make the transition from the snow to the rock. And depending on the conditions you climb it in you may need an ice tool on the route. I didn't bring one on the route.
Protection
2 60mts Ropes. 10mm highly recomended.
2 standard racks
Big nuts to bail
Ice axe and Crampons for the approach in the Cole Bitch. Some years is icy, others, snowy, others dry. Even in Paines Summer.
Bivy gear for the Bonnington cave. No need to portaledge. This days this route is consider "a day trip" by the local guides.
Hans Florine 2010: I only brought five cams up to a #3 and a dozen nuts.
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