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Montmorency Falls

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Montmorency Falls Rock Climbing 


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Location: 46.88998, -71.14738 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,149
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luc on Apr 16, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Montmorency Falls Photo by Jacques Bou

Description 

Probably the next best know waterfall in Canada. This landmark sees hundreds of thousands of tourists every year, it even gets lit up at night!
There's been a long irritation with a licensed guiding company who will gladly take possession of most of the cliff for their courses, please be patient and ask nicely if you want to climb on routes they've got roped up.

You used to be required to register prior to climbing the waterfalls and there were specific rules such as mandatory use of a helmet and no free soloing.

Getting There 

From Quebec city, take highway 440 east and take the exit to l'Ile d'Orleans. Follow the indication to Chute Montmorency.
There's a pay parking.
Hike 10 minutes to the base of the cliff.

Routes, left to right 

  • Le Couloir de descente de gauche 120m I, WI1
  • L'Initiation 40m I, WI2
  • Le Jour de la marmotte 100m II, 5.6, WI2+
  • La Décongelée 100m II, M5+
  • La Congelée 100m II, WI3
  • La Molson dry tooling 25m II, M5+
  • L'Entonoir 110m II, WI3+
  • Le Pilier central 45m II, WI4+
  • Le Pilier de cristal 110m II, WI4+
  • Le Pilier Direct 95m II, WI4+
  • Super momo 85m II, WI4
  • Super Wet 85m II, WI3+
(Waterfall / Chute)
  • La Dame Blanche 85m II, WI3+ X
  • Kouba 50m II, M6 X, WI4
  • Le Couloir de descente de droite 150m I, WI1

at the base
  • Le Pain de sucre 5-40m I, WI1-4+

Climbing Season

For the *Quebec Ice, Mixed & Alpine Climbing area.

Weather station 5.7 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Montmorency Falls
Rock Climbing Photo: co vapor

Colorado Vapor WI4 PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Montmorency Falls
This route is on a buttress at Chute de Montmorency. It rarely forms. We got there during a good year.Edit:Climb a corner opened towards the East and a mixed overhang to a belay ledge.The second pitch starts in a left facing corner (mixed) then traverses left on a slab where the ice begins....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Montmorency Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: broader view of climbing areas to the left of the ...
BETA PHOTO: broader view of climbing areas to the left of the ...

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