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BETA PHOTO: The route with the upper corner foreshortened.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
An unusual Creek outing demanding a variety of techniques. Start with a short fingers corner, pull onto a shelf, face climb up some dubious soft rock, grapple out a strenuous, bulging slot, and jam up the nicely varnished upper corner with sustained ringlocks and tight hands, stemming on the occasional face features. Shelf belay stance.
The lower section was cleaned/trundled a good bit after the lead, but still needs some love. It's a softer band that will never be great, but should be safer now at least. Some traffic cleaning will certainly help. The upper corner is quite nice, and worth the lower choss wrangling IMO.
On the far right side of the cliff, 50' right of Twitch. Plaque at base.
(1).3 .4 .5, (3).75, (3)#1, (2) #2, (1)#3 Camalots, Med stoppers for lower face, slings. Chain anchors.
A closer shot of the lower bit...not the better ha...
Oct 31, 2011
clever name, i like it!
Mar 10, 2014
While the upper section looks enticing, I bailed on this route after a few footholds crumbled in the rotten section. Gear in that area is suspect too as you can't tell if you are placing it in rock or just really hard dirt...I would avoid unless/until it cleans up significantly.
By Devin Fin
Nov 30, 2015
I bailed on this dirty climb to ... Takes a lot to get me to turn around an call it ... But it was more then just a stretch of bad rock ....