Montana Gangster  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Trevor Bowman, Neil Kauffman, Joel Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/26/11 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Trevor Bowman on Apr 17, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route with the upper corner foreshortened.

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Description 

An unusual Creek outing demanding a variety of techniques. Start with a short fingers corner, pull onto a shelf, face climb up some dubious soft rock, grapple out a strenuous, bulging slot, and jam up the nicely varnished upper corner with sustained ringlocks and tight hands, stemming on the occasional face features. Shelf belay stance.

The lower section was cleaned/trundled a good bit after the lead, but still needs some love. It's a softer band that will never be great, but should be safer now at least. Some traffic cleaning will certainly help. The upper corner is quite nice, and worth the lower choss wrangling IMO.

Location 

On the far right side of the cliff, 50' right of Twitch. Plaque at base.

Protection 

(1).3 .4 .5, (3).75, (3)#1, (2) #2, (1)#3 Camalots, Med stoppers for lower face, slings. Chain anchors.

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A closer shot of the lower bit...not the better ha...