Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Scarface
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banditos !  
Anal Leakage 
Big Guy 
Big Jon 
Black Uhuru 
Carlito's Way 
Cement Shoes 
Cleaner, The 
Cocaine Blues 
Columbian Hit Man 
Comic Relief 
Cross Dihedral 
Death of a Cowboy 
Desert Shield 
Desert Sunset 
Desert Vuarnet 
Dirt Cheap 
Fat Farm, The 
Fertile Crescent 
Internal Scar 
Lt. Uhuru 
Mantel Illness 
Montana Gangster 
My Little Friend 
Not That Funny 
Nubian Slave 
Polaris 
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) 
Route 666 
Scard Face  
Scarface 
Sicilian 
Spam 
Steel Pulse 
Sudden Impact 
Torque Wrench 
Trading Places 
Twitch 
Unknown (just right of Spam) 
Unknown 10 
Unknown 10+ 
Unknown 5.9 
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) 
Unnamed 10- 
Unnamed 5.9 
Wavy Gravy 
Way Of The Gun 
Where's Carruthers? 
Your Mama 

Montana Gangster 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Neil Kauffman, Joel Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/26/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 17, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: The route with the upper corner foreshortened.

Description 

An unusual Creek outing demanding a variety of techniques. Start with a short fingers corner, pull onto a shelf, face climb up some dubious soft rock, grapple out a strenuous, bulging slot, and jam up the nicely varnished upper corner with sustained ringlocks and tight hands, stemming on the occasional face features. Shelf belay stance.

The lower section was cleaned/trundled a good bit after the lead, but still needs some love. It's a softer band that will never be great, but should be safer now at least. Some traffic cleaning will certainly help. The upper corner is quite nice, and worth the lower choss wrangling IMO.


Location 

On the far right side of the cliff, 50' right of Twitch. Plaque at base.


Protection 

(1).3 .4 .5, (3).75, (3)#1, (2) #2, (1)#3 Camalots, Med stoppers for lower face, slings. Chain anchors.



Photos of Montana Gangster Slideshow Add Photo
A closer shot of the lower bit...not the better half!
A closer shot of the lower bit...not the better ha...
Comments on Montana Gangster Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Oct 31, 2011

clever name, i like it!

By 303scott
Mar 10, 2014

While the upper section looks enticing, I bailed on this route after a few footholds crumbled in the rotten section. Gear in that area is suspect too as you can't tell if you are placing it in rock or just really hard dirt...I would avoid unless/until it cleans up significantly.