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Montagne du Tranchant

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Montagne du Tranchant  


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Elevation: 1,250'
Location: 46.2899, -73.8552 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,083
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luc on Oct 19, 2011
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Chuck on Mulot en Péril 5.10b

This cliffs is insured by the FQME MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Montagne du Tranchant is clearly the most popular cliff in Lanaudière.
It's located on public lands managed by the city of St-Come, the Club d'Escalade de Lanaudière (CEL) and the FQME. The city is fairly open to climbers, they've created a parking lot, installed a dry toilet and clear out the snow from the lot for us ice-climbers. So please encourage the local economy to thank them!

The cliff faces south west and can dry fairly quickly after a rainy day.
Many routes are very steep faces with remarkably positively holds.

-Due to the exfoliation of the rock, most routes are sport routes or mixed.
-Stick-Clipping is highly encouraged, many routes have been equipped with this in mind.
-Most belays and anchors are bolted, to lessen premature wear and tear, no lowering or top-roping off the bolts and chains.
-Don't climb on routes clearly indicated as being a project or red-taped, this is extremely dangerous.
-There's no garbage cans on the site so please pack it out.
-Please refrain from starting fires and camping on the neighbours lot. The CEL will probably setup a couple tent-sites with a sheltered fire-pit.

Ice Climbs

Getting There 

The cliff is located between the city of Notre-Dame-de-la-Merci and St-Comes in Lanaudière.

History 

Jean-Claude Néolet discovered the cliff in 2003 and started putting up some routes, during the winter of 2004 the ice-climbing potential was also discovered. Following the publication of a regional guidebook in 2004 and the creation of the CEL in April 2005 the site gained even more popularity. In 2008-2009, mostly thanks to independent openers, the amount and range of routes ballooned to nearly 40 routes from 5.3 to 5.13.

Guidebooks 

Guide d'Escalade de Lanaudière (Roche et Glace)
Jean Claude Néolet (2009)+updates
Available at La Cordée and Montain Equipment Coop

La montagne du Tranchant
Socrate Badeau (2010+)

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.7 miles from here

36 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',3],['5.8',6],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',8],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Montagne du Tranchant
Château d'If

Le chateau d'If 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  North America : Canada : ... : Tranchant - Right
Start on the right end of an angled ledge, underneath a right facing corner and roof.Follow the corner up to the roof.Clear the roof using the hand crack, lever and balance yourself in the corner (crux) before traversing right to the bolted anchor.Commencez a la droite de la vire, en dessous d'un coins faisant face a droite suivi d'un toit.suivre la fissure dans le coin jusqu'au toit, passez le toit et rétablissez vous dans le coin (crux) avant de rejoindre le relais a droite....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Montagne du Tranchant Slideshow Add Photo
Side view of Tranchant
Side view of Tranchant
The club doing some terracing, trail maintenance and more. <br />RIP Jean-Claude
The club doing some terracing, trail maintenance a...

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