Mont Rigaud Rock Climbing
At Upper Gully/ Bonnies wall looking out towards s...
Area Order: left to right
Mont Rigaud is a high quality pink granite cliff which contains over 70 bolted sport routes. Climbs are between 5.2-5.13, with a healthy dose in the 5.6-5.12 range. Heights are typically 10-15 meters.
Sun comes around late morning to early afternoon and there are enough scattered trees which provide shade in the summer months.
Weekdays you'll find climbers coming after work for an evening workout, weekends on the other hand can get crowded on the easy to moderate routes. The base is clean of brush and there is plenty of room along the the entire length of the cliff to belay climbers, lay down your equipment and to gather and talk. Climbers bringing children and or dogs are not uncommon.
A central gully .
The most popular wall are:
Bob's Wall - a couple of excellent routes
Main Wall - High quality moderates
Gully Wall - provides easy top rope access for all the walls.
STD Wall - Steepest wall and some of the hardest climbs
Rigaud is a small town just off A40 [Trans -Canada] near the Quebec-Ontario border, 60km west of Montreal take exit #12 and 120km east of Ottawa take exit #9. Head into the center of town and follow the signs for Centre de ski Rigaud (about 3-4 km).
If coming from the south, route 325 goes right to the location.
The ski hill owner is kind enough to allow parking at the ski hill. Park at the smaller MTB parking lot just to the left of the main lot. The main lot closes in the late afternoon, so if you are planning to stay past 4:00 don't park here or you'll get locked in!. Parking is also allowed on the side of the road 300 meters past the ski area, just past the three way stop beside the farmers fields on Chemin du Petit Brûlé. Don't park at the farmer's gate but just past it.
Once at the ski area parking lot the cliff should be visible on the upper left side when looking up the ski hills. Take a foot path up the furthest left ski trail [L'Express]. When that trail splits take the left trail again [La Falaise]. Once this trail starts to cut right, a path through the woods should be visible on the left [look for a flat rock]. Keep hiking up and left, you are sure to hit the cliff somewhere. Trail in woods is only about 200m. The
entire walk from parking area to cliff face takes 10-15 minutes.
If you can't find the wooded trail or want to keep it simple, you can continue up the ski run until the cliff becomes visible through the trees on your left, then just turn left to cliff.
The entire area is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! The land owners seem to tolerate climbers, hopefully this attitude will continue, please treat the area with respect !
Please... Most of the entire climbing area is covered with dry pine needles in the summer.
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRES OR CAMPING ALLOWED.
Weather station 2.9 miles from here
79 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mont Rigaud
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mont Rigaud
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mont Rigaud:
Featured Route For Mont Rigaud
Next Step 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b North America
: ... : Main Wall
Start in the middle of a blank wall to the right of a very high bolt. Make hard face move up a thin face to a high first bolt. Make the crux move to the second bolt, then climb left to a spot under roof/corner. Turn corner to the right and finish on positive holds straight up. Stick clip or a good spotter.It's possible to come in from Killer Bunnies and clip the first bolt with the right hand but if you continue the route is bumped down to 5.9 ....[more] Browse More Classics in International
Unclimbed section on left
Top rope wall, three routes are between the climb...
View from top of Bonnie Wall looking down at the s...
BETA PHOTO: Trail to cliff face is 75 meters to the left of he...
Parking area at base of Rigaud, cliff face is up o...
Rigaud .... Climbers park left side inside inline ...
Closer look of wall at Raspberry route, between th...
No routes in here yet, some potential
STD wall ...., short routes above ledge.
Jul 30, 2015
Warning: Wild Parsnip plants at Mont Rigaud
There is Wild Parsnip growing on the ski run "La Falaise" which is part of the approach to the cliff. Stem, leaves, and flowers of the plant contain chemicals that can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight and cause severe burns and blindness. Avoid contact with the plant! We were there on Tuesday and it is still possible to walk through safely but care had to be taken.
By Ian Dibbs
May 23, 2015
Parking now costs $5 ... check parking lot closing sometimes as early as 4:00.