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Shems BJ on Monsterpiece Theatre. Take the mono, l...
This fine pocket-fest is the left route on a wide panel of stone that gets relatively early shade, and features 3 5.12a's. Begin up an easy slab to a high first bolt. Two more bolts of easy climbing and the wall rears up to a slight overhang. A good shake from killer pockets at the 4th bolt offer one last chance to recuperate before the crux. A set of heinously thin pockets lead up and right to another jug. A long reach heads back left to a horizontal break and a good rest. From here, hard-to-see, black polished crimps and a cool hole lead up and left to the anchor.
3rd bolted route from the left.
6 bolts, 2 BA.
Courtney "12a for breakfast" Porreca on Monsterpie...
Moving into the crux of the route.
Sam G. hitting the anchors without a problem.
|Comments on Monsterpiece Theatre
|By Anthony Stout|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 5, 2007
A great route with a pronounced crux! As described above requires a very long reach, probably more difficult for shorter climbers.
Mar 23, 2009
Best route at BTONP, IMO. Crux is very sequential (which is unusual for White Rock).
|By J. Albers|
Apr 13, 2010
I always thought this was a super fun route, albeit not super sustained. Walt is right, in that this thing is pretty sequential. I bent the sh*t out of the crux bolt hanger taking a fall on it. I came back the next day, sent the route (with extra gusto because I didn't want to fall on the old bent SMC hanger) and replaced the hanger on rappel (maybe 7 years ago?).
EDIT: In case anyone is wondering how I bent the hanger, you can see a picture of how the bolt was loaded by looking at the picture linked below. After this incident, I started clipping bolts in the opposite orientation to that shown in the photo.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 14, 2010
Those old SMC hangers definitely don't inspire confidence and I've recently replaced 8 of them down at BTONP on various routes.
I'm intrigued to learn more about how the hanger bent when you fell on it. It seems to me that even if the draw was clipped to the bolt as show in the photo you referenced, as the climber fell down past the bolt the carabiner would "flatten out" in orientation and pull on the bottom end of the hanger. Assuming the hanger is properly aligned on the bolt, there wouldn't be an issue.
However if the hanger was a bit loose and could stay orientated slightly sideways, I could see the carabiner staying a bit cattywompus and then torquing the hanger. I'd guess the older SMC hangers would be a lot more likely to get torqued like that given their elongated and narrow form-factor. My guess is that with more modern hangers the probability of a repeat of your incident is extremely low.
|By J. Albers|
May 24, 2010
To answer your question about the hanger getting bent. I think what happens is that the nose of the biner actually gets stuck as you move past and when you fall it simply wedges into place and bends the hanger. When I came to rest after the fall, the biner was essentially in that exact position and no, the hanger was not loose. Here is another example of this happening (on the lowest bolt):
I'm not actually convinced that newer hangers will change this situation much at all.
|By J. Albers|
Jan 5, 2011
I climbed MT again recently and I noticed that one of anchor bolts is an old bolt that is sealed with epoxy or glue. There are quite a number of bolts in the southern Sierra that sport this kind of setup; essentially, the bolter was trying to keep the elements out and prolong the life of the bolt. Unfortunately, the end result is that the epoxy actually holds the moisture in. When folks started rebolting to update hardware, they found that what looked like a decent bolt from the outside was actually a rusted, dangerous mess on the inside.
I know that there are locals doing hardware updates, and I just thought I would nominate this anchor as a candidate for a new bolt. If I were still local I would do it myself, but unfortunately I only occasionally get back to NM.