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Monsterpiece Theatre 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Peter Gram, 7/89
Page Views: 1,557
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Shems BJ on Monsterpiece Theatre. Take the mono, l...

Description 

This fine pocket-fest is the left route on a wide panel of stone that gets relatively early shade, and features 3 5.12a's. Begin up an easy slab to a high first bolt. Two more bolts of easy climbing and the wall rears up to a slight overhang. A good shake from killer pockets at the 4th bolt offer one last chance to recuperate before the crux. A set of heinously thin pockets lead up and right to another jug. A long reach heads back left to a horizontal break and a good rest. From here, hard-to-see, black polished crimps and a cool hole lead up and left to the anchor.

Location 

3rd bolted route from the left.

Protection 

6 bolts, 2 BA.


Photos of Monsterpiece Theatre Slideshow Add Photo
Moving into the crux of the route.
Moving into the crux of the route.
Courtney "12a for breakfast" Porreca on ...
Courtney "12a for breakfast" Porreca on ...
Sam G. hitting the anchors without a problem.
Sam G. hitting the anchors without a problem.

Comments on Monsterpiece Theatre Add Comment
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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A great route with a pronounced crux! As described above requires a very long reach, probably more difficult for shorter climbers.
By Wa3lt
Mar 23, 2009

Best route at BTONP, IMO. Crux is very sequential (which is unusual for White Rock).
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I always thought this was a super fun route, albeit not super sustained. Walt is right, in that this thing is pretty sequential. I bent the sh*t out of the crux bolt hanger taking a fall on it. I came back the next day, sent the route (with extra gusto because I didn't want to fall on the old bent SMC hanger) and replaced the hanger on rappel (maybe 7 years ago?).

EDIT: In case anyone is wondering how I bent the hanger, you can see a picture of how the bolt was loaded by looking at the picture linked below. After this incident, I started clipping bolts in the opposite orientation to that shown in the photo.

mountainproject.com/images/85/...
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Those old SMC hangers definitely don't inspire confidence and I've recently replaced 8 of them down at BTONP on various routes.

I'm intrigued to learn more about how the hanger bent when you fell on it. It seems to me that even if the draw was clipped to the bolt as show in the photo you referenced, as the climber fell down past the bolt the carabiner would "flatten out" in orientation and pull on the bottom end of the hanger. Assuming the hanger is properly aligned on the bolt, there wouldn't be an issue.

However if the hanger was a bit loose and could stay orientated slightly sideways, I could see the carabiner staying a bit cattywompus and then torquing the hanger. I'd guess the older SMC hangers would be a lot more likely to get torqued like that given their elongated and narrow form-factor. My guess is that with more modern hangers the probability of a repeat of your incident is extremely low.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Jason,

To answer your question about the hanger getting bent. I think what happens is that the nose of the biner actually gets stuck as you move past and when you fall it simply wedges into place and bends the hanger. When I came to rest after the fall, the biner was essentially in that exact position and no, the hanger was not loose. Here is another example of this happening (on the lowest bolt):

mountainproject.com/images/46/...

I'm not actually convinced that newer hangers will change this situation much at all.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 5, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I climbed MT again recently and I noticed that one of anchor bolts is an old bolt that is sealed with epoxy or glue. There are quite a number of bolts in the southern Sierra that sport this kind of setup; essentially, the bolter was trying to keep the elements out and prolong the life of the bolt. Unfortunately, the end result is that the epoxy actually holds the moisture in. When folks started rebolting to update hardware, they found that what looked like a decent bolt from the outside was actually a rusted, dangerous mess on the inside.

I know that there are locals doing hardware updates, and I just thought I would nominate this anchor as a candidate for a new bolt. If I were still local I would do it myself, but unfortunately I only occasionally get back to NM.
Cheers.