Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
. 
Alchemy 
Anorexic Doughboy 
Bushwhacker 
California Weakender 
Chinese Chicken 
Dame El Oro 
Diminishing Returns 
Double Trouble 
Fall Line 
Fingerlings 
Fire and Sage 
Fissuremen 
Full Clip 
Fun Soup 
Gateway 
Geologic Time 
Gods Must Be Angry, The 
Gold Rush 
Guillotine, The 
Hip to Toe 
JR Token 
Landing a Monster 
Lively Up Yourself 
Long March, The 
May Fly, The 
Midas Touch 
Monster 
Mr. Squiggles 
Out of the Question 
Out Ridin' Fences 
Purple Pinky Eater 
Question Air Box, The 
Redd Alert 
Redside 
Reservation Blues 
River Wide, The 
Sleepy Hallow 
Space Between, The 
Space Mission 
Steelhead 
Suzuki 
Time Bomb 
Two Step Left 
Two Step Right 
U3 
U4 
Unknown 1 
Unknown 2 
Winter Sustenance 
Wondertwins 
Unsorted Routes:

Monster 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jason Huston and Dylan Johnson (11/06)
Page Views: 1,523
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 13, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Thad Arnold wrestles with a Monster. Photo by Mat...
Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Monster starts as a tricky tips crack that gradually opens up to fingers and hands.

The technical crux comes fairly low, but after a couple of decent rests in the middle you'll still find yourself looking at a good deal of ever-widening hands before you reach the chains.

The opening sequences can be made significantly easier if you cheat a bit by laybacking and using the next crack over to the left, but if you're a purist try going straight in.

This is an incredibly fun route.


Location 

Just to the right of JR Token. Start on the block and climb the chalked tip jams on your right.


Protection 

Small gear (tips) to large hands.



Comments on Monster Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Oct 28, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

The consensus on the grade of this route from many who climb at the crag regularly as well as some very talented visiors is that it's more of a 12-. In either case, come expecting thin locks, bad feet, and difficulties seeing the next good lock right off the deck.

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 4, 2009

Well that makes me feel a little bit better about my effort. I thought that the opening moves were pretty burly for an 11.

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

So, despite my comment above, I (and a few others) now feel slightly differently about the grade. Shortly after the consensus bumped it up to 12-, new beta came to light and now I'm skeptical of whether or not the rating is consistent with other routes of the grade at the crag. In any case, know that if you figure out the easy beta, it's going to be a very quick tick for Trout 12-.

By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Jun 2, 2013

Fun splitter after the crux. Painful start! Ouch!