Contine south around the corner from the start of the Standard Route to a left-facing corner leading up to roof fractured by hand-jam size cracks about 20 feet above the pipe.
P1. Climb past the roof to the upper left corner of the ramp belay stance for Standard Route. Rossiter rates that pitch 8+ (which is slightly sandbagged, in my opinion).
P2. The second pitch ascends a right-facing corner past a rusting but solid knifeblade. It's rated 9 but I had an easier time leading this pitch than following the roof. The gear is a little thin past the pin, but you'll find placements as you make a short traverse right and then head up through overhanging, hand-jamming terrain until the rock lays back for an easy finish.
Recommend doing these two pitches then walking north 100 feet to Classic Finger Crack for dessert. (Rossiter has the second pitch of this route joining Standard Route, but the version I described is more consistent in grade and a more direct line.)
Carry up to a #2 Camalot and some smaller Aliens and Metolius TCUs 1-4. A fixed pin protects the crux on the second pitch
BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress
1. Standard Route (7+)
2. West Face...
stemmed beneath the crux roof section of the first...
Dave Gentry on p1
He just pulled the roof with his usual style and e...
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 5, 2002
What's the best way to reach the left hand jug on the crux? I matched on a left-facing horizontal knob. Hard on the wrist! -- Clare Shemeta
|By Ernie Port|
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 8, 2003
Led this today thinking I was climbing The Standard route. Discovered this route links up with that one on P2 according to Rossiter. The roof on P1 goes at 8+ and can be turned any number of ways. Step way left, undercling the horn at the corner, then reach high with the left hand, worked for me. I've seen others avoid the high seem at the corner of the roof and move up the lip of the slab to the left, much harder. P2 crux is a fun corner, albeit short, with good stems, then easy climbing to the top. Fun route!
|By Matt Richardson|
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 28, 2007
Actually, this route does not necessarily link up with Standard Route. It links up with Variation, according to Rossiter. Start the second pitch as you would Variation, but rather than moving right to the face, move left and follow the left leaning dihedral. These are consistently 5.8.
|By Buzz Burrell|
Jun 14, 2007
This is a really fun, short route with lots of possibilities. Knowing the sequence really helps - I'm a very average climber and free solo it with no sweat - no way it's 5.9.
On the opening overhang traverse, one can either hang there forever wearing out your arms, or stem high with your feet, make one small positioning move so you can reach the sharp undercling/horn on your left, match it right hand while your feet aren't doing anything, then reach high left around the corner for the secret jug. Once your fingers touch that, it's done.
Above that are three worthwhile possibilities. 1) The route described traverses low on that overhang/wall to the right past that pin, before reaching up for another pull-up bar; easier than it looks. 2) Best option however is straight up, which means surmonting awkward blocks with big holds that don't seem to be at the optimal angle, thus providing a rather enjoyable thrash, as you think, "Dang, I don't seem to be doing this right". But the holds are big and the cams are at your face. 3) If you go to the left side of this same overhang/wall, there's a sketchy but interesting balance/friction move surmonting a smoothish ramp.
Above this wall there actually are even more options, to either 4th class to top or continue encountering some nice 5th class lips.
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 17, 2007
Definitely not 5.9; definitely an awesome route and a delightful lead. Never did get the secret jug--didn't know it was there. Unfortunately, the climb is more or less a "one move wonder" --once past the roof, the rest of the climb isn't nearly as challenging.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The route has 3 distinct crux sections. I found the roof to be enjoyable, but the second crux I had to down-climb and try again! The third crux has some nice jamming to a layback. This is a nice route with varied climbing.
|By Stan Badgett|
Apr 19, 2010
First ascent by Stan Badgett and Frank Prescott in 1966 or 1967. At the time we thought it was 5.8. It went straight up the obvious line from bottom to top.