Monster Groove Reject Start  5.11 A0

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.11 A0 [details] FA:  A.M. New Route:  Yes Season:  when dry Submitted By:  andjoely on Feb 27, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Green shows this variation. Yellow shows direct st...

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb rejected radar up to first right angling crack then traverse left past a couple bolts on face to base of the overhanging groove pitch of monster groove direct. I Have done all the moves but have not redpointed and it will go free at 5.12b. It's an open project so "fame and glory" awaits the person who frees it.

Though this is only a small variation with about 60 feet of new climbing it is significant because it will make for the 2nd easiest all free route (after defective sonar) that goes entirely up the steep parts of Laurel between Forbidden fruit and Fathom.

Protection 

Lots of cams including a #5 camalot.
2 or 3 bolts, I forget.

I did bolt it appropriately for both leader and follower, but there is a lot of traversing and some (though likely safe) swing potential for the follower. So both leader and follower should be confident climbers.