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Laurel Knob
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'Shimer Down T 
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 
Aloha slab T 
Annie Get Your Guns T 
Arrested Development  T 
Before the Settlers Arrive T 
Better late than never T 
Biopsy T 
Black Flag T 
Buried Treasure T 
Canyons of Laurel T 
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 
Central Pillar of Laurel T 
Clippidy Doodah... S 
Clowns to the Left of me T 
Cotton Pony  T 
Cruising with the Top Down T 
Defective Sonar T 
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 
Dillard Arete T 
Don't call me surely T 
Dry streak T 
Fathom T 
Fathom Direct T 
Fathom Escape Hatch T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Friction Addiction T 
Frolictown T 
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 
Funky Chicken, The T 
Get it while it's hot T 
Gibbet , The T 
Girl friend route T 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 
Have and Not Need T,S 
High & Dry T,S 
Hone Ranger T 
Hypocrite's Corner T 
Jokers to the right  T 
Keel Hauled T 
Laurel's Girdle T 
Laurel's Snake Dike T 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 
Manatee Fluid T 
Mechanical Bull T,S 
Mirage  T 
Mirage Direct Finish T 
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 
Monster Groove Reject Start T 
Mutiny T 
Nana's Bananas T 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 
O.K. Corral T,S 
Oasis T 
Old Times' Sake T 
Permission Granite T 
Pirate's Cove T 
Pirate's cove Alt start T 
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 
Puff The Magic Dragon T 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 
Rejected Radar T 
Rock Eating Tree T 
Route Of The Living Dead T 
Seconds T 
Squirrely man T 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 
Stellar Sonar T 
Stemming Laurel T 
Stingray T 
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 
Unfathomable T 
Use It Express T 
Use It Or Luge It T,S 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 
Walkin' Da Plank T 
Wild Turkeys T 
Wild Wild West  T,S 
Wormhole T 

Monster Groove Reject Start 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: A.M.
New Route: Yes
Season: when dry
Page Views: 373
Submitted By: andjoely on Feb 27, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Green shows this variation. Yellow shows direct st...


This is a variation to monster groove direct linking other routes with 60 feet of new climbing that bypasses the business of Monster groove direct and makes for the second easiest free route up the steep parts of Laurel Knob between Fathom and Forbidden Fruit.

P1-P2: Climb first two pitches of rejected radar, defective sonar, or P1 of monster groove direct and stellar sonar to get to the bolted belay at base of pitch 3 of defective sonar. (5.10)
p3: Climb rejected radar to the right angling crack (crux section on the face getting to the crack). Put a 6 foot sling on large cams (#4 and #5 camalot) and then continue traversing left on 5.10 climbing putting 2 foot slings on most of the gear. 4 bolts including the two on rejected radar. Gear belay takes #1 to #3 camalot. (5.12a)
p4: Climb overhanging water groove pitch of monster groove direct. A marginal small offset cam or TCU fits between the first and second bolts on the left. No other gear needed. Bolted belay on the dike to the left that is easy to miss. Bring a brush for cleaning a few key holds which get dirty quickly from the water running down the groove much of the year. (5.12b)
p5-p7: Climb the monster groove to the top (see description for the route dike hike - monster groove)


I took doubles of cams from tiny to #2 camalot including offsets, singles of #3, #4, and #5 camalot C4, nuts, and tricams. A third #2 camalot is recommended for the gear belay. Red C3 is needed for one of the upper pitches of the monster groove. Much of the gear can be left at the gear belay atop pitch 3 and retrieved when rappelling (using 2 60 m ropes off bolted anchors). Reasonably well protected except for some moderate runouts on some easier sections of the upper monster groove pitches.

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