Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Laurel Knob
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 
Aloha slab T 
Annie Get Your Guns T 
Arrested Development  T 
Before the Settlers Arrive T 
Better late than never T 
Biopsy T 
Black Flag T 
Buried Treasure T 
Canyons of Laurel T 
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 
Central Pillar of Laurel T 
Clippidy Doodah... S 
Clowns to the Left of me T 
Cotton Pony  T 
Cruising with the Top Down T 
Defective Sonar T 
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 
Dillard Arete T 
Don't call me surely T 
Dry streak T 
Fathom T 
Fathom Direct T 
Fathom Escape Hatch T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Friction Addiction T 
Frolictown T 
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 
Funky Chicken, The T 
Get it while it's hot T 
Gibbet , The T 
Girl friend route T 
Groover (Fischesser Finish) T 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 
Have and Not Need T,S 
High & Dry T,S 
Hone Ranger T 
Hypocrite's Corner T 
Jokers to the right  T 
Keel Hauled T 
Laurel's Girdle T 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 
Manatee Fluid T 
Mechanical Bull T,S 
Mirage  T 
Mirage Direct Finish T 
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 
Monster Groove Reject Start T 
Mutiny T 
Nana's Bananas T 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 
No Sir (?) T 
O.K. Corral T,S 
Oasis T 
Old Times' Sake T 
Permission Granite T 
Pirate's Cove T 
Pirate's cove Alt start T 
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 
Puff The Magic Dragon T 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 
Rejected Radar T 
Route Of The Living Dead T 
Seconds T 
Squirrely man T 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 
Stellar Sonar T 
Stemming Laurel T 
Stingray T 
Unfathomable T 
Use It Express T 
Use It Or Luge It T,S 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 
Walkin' Da Plank T 
Wild Turkeys T 
Wild Wild West  T,S 
Wormhole T 

Monster Groove Direct Start 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b A0

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b A0 [details]
FA: A.M., N.B.
New Route: Yes
Season: any when dry
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: andjoely on Feb 27, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: BETA ALERT (Don't read if going for onsight)... Cl...

Description 

This is a 4 pitch direct start to Dike hike- monster groove that we did a while ago. It makes for the steepest, longest, and most direct groove climb at laurel knob. It can seep with water often, but it is slightly drier than the forbidden fruit groove and comparable in wetness to the groove on defective sonar.

P1: climb slab past a cam and one bolt to belay ledge at start of stellar sonar, 5.9R
P2: Climb stellar sonar corner than up overhanging 1/2 pad diagonal crimp crux section. Amazing climbing. Have done it with one hang several times and should go free at 5.13-. You can A0 the crux section off of a hangerless bolt (bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger)
P3: Climb overhanging jugs to step left into water groove, 5.10
P4: Climb ridiculous overhanging water groove, 5.12b

Everything but P2 has been redpointed. P2 is an open project.

Protection 

cams and one nut for the hangerless bolt. Everything 5.10 and harder is well protected. Specific gear needed (Take this info with a grain of salt because it is from memory from being on the route a while ago):
P1: medium cam for before first bolt. Belay off of gear in corner or tree.
P2: cams for slabby corner and long slings for this part. Then all you need is quickdraws for the crux section. aidable by using wired nut on quickdraw
p3: assortment of small - medium cams for below the first bolt. I might have slung a horn to, I forget.
p4: bolts and maybe a tiny cam in a horizontal above the first bolt. I think I didn't have the right cam size when I redpointed it and I did it on all draws. I seem to recall that there also might be a hole up high that might take a tricam or a number 2, 3, or 4 camalot. Or maybe not. Maybe Nathan remembers better than me.


Photos of Monster Groove Direct Start Slideshow Add Photo
Nathan putting up P2
Nathan putting up P2
Nathan putting up the bolts on pitch 4.
Nathan putting up the bolts on pitch 4.
Photo showing steepness at start of P2 boulder problem. This section of the crux v7 boulder problem is a deadpoint to get established in some overhanging tips liebacking that leads to the crux long reach at the top of the shallow corner.
Photo showing steepness at start of P2 boulder pro...

Comments on Monster Groove Direct Start Add Comment
Show which comments
By andjoely
From: Menlo Park, CA
Feb 27, 2013

Some strong person should come free this thing. I really was determined to do so but then got busy with non-climbing things.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 28, 2013

This will be an absolute classic some day! Amazing groove up the tallest portion of the wall.