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Laurel Knob
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) 
Aloha slab 
Annie Get Your Guns 
Arrested Development  
Before the Settlers Arrive 
Better late than never 
Black Flag 
Buried Treasure 
Canyons of Laurel 
Central Pillar Direct Finish 
Central Pillar of Laurel 
Clippidy Doodah... 
Clowns to the Left of me 
Cotton Pony  
Defective Sonar 
Dike hike - Monster Groove 
Dillard Arete 
Don't call me surely 
Dry streak 
Fathom Direct 
Fathom Escape Hatch 
Finger Lickin' Good 
Friction Addiction 
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree 
Funky Chicken, The 
Get it while it's hot 
Gibbet , The 
Girl friend route 
Groover (Fischesser Finish) 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel 
Have and Not Need 
High & Dry 
Hone Ranger 
Hypocrite's Corner 
Jokers to the right  
Keel Hauled 
Laurel's Girdle 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The 
Manatee Fluid 
Mechanical Bull 
Mirage Direct Finish 
Monster Groove Direct Start 
Monster Groove Reject Start 
Nana's Bananas 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On 
No Sir (?) 
O.K. Corral 
Old Times' Sake 
Permission Granite 
Pirate's Cove 
Pirate's cove Alt start 
Pirate's Cove direct finish 
Puff The Magic Dragon 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete 
Rejected Radar 
Route Of The Living Dead 
Squirrely man 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. 
Stellar Sonar 
Stemming Laurel 
Use It Or Luge It 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start 
Walkin' Da Plank 
Wild Turkeys 
Wild Wild West  

Monster Groove Direct Start 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b A0

Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b A0 [details]
FA: A.M., N.B.
New Route: Yes
Season: any when dry
Page Views: 483
Submitted By: andjoely on Feb 27, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: BETA ALERT (Don't read if going for onsight)... Cl...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a 4 pitch direct start to Dike hike- monster groove that we did a while ago. It makes for the steepest, longest, and most direct groove climb at laurel knob. It can seep with water often, but it is slightly drier than the forbidden fruit groove and comparable in wetness to the groove on defective sonar.

P1: climb slab past a cam and one bolt to belay ledge at start of stellar sonar, 5.9R
P2: Climb stellar sonar corner than up overhanging 1/2 pad diagonal crimp crux section. Amazing climbing. Have done it with one hang several times and should go free at 5.13-. You can A0 the crux section off of a hangerless bolt (bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger)
P3: Climb overhanging jugs to step left into water groove, 5.10
P4: Climb ridiculous overhanging water groove, 5.12b

Everything but P2 has been redpointed. P2 is an open project.


cams and one nut for the hangerless bolt. Everything 5.10 and harder is well protected. Specific gear needed (Take this info with a grain of salt because it is from memory from being on the route a while ago):
P1: medium cam for before first bolt. Belay off of gear in corner or tree.
P2: cams for slabby corner and long slings for this part. Then all you need is quickdraws for the crux section. aidable by using wired nut on quickdraw
p3: assortment of small - medium cams for below the first bolt. I might have slung a horn to, I forget.
p4: bolts and maybe a tiny cam in a horizontal above the first bolt. I think I didn't have the right cam size when I redpointed it and I did it on all draws. I seem to recall that there also might be a hole up high that might take a tricam or a number 2, 3, or 4 camalot. Or maybe not. Maybe Nathan remembers better than me.

Photos of Monster Groove Direct Start Slideshow Add Photo
Nathan putting up P2
Nathan putting up P2
Nathan putting up the bolts on pitch 4.
Nathan putting up the bolts on pitch 4.
Photo showing steepness at start of P2 boulder problem. This section of the crux v7 boulder problem is a deadpoint to get established in some overhanging tips liebacking that leads to the crux long reach at the top of the shallow corner.
Photo showing steepness at start of P2 boulder pro...
Comments on Monster Groove Direct Start Add Comment
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By andjoely
From: Clemson, SC
Feb 27, 2013

Some strong person should come free this thing. I really was determined to do so but then got busy with non-climbing things.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 28, 2013

This will be an absolute classic some day! Amazing groove up the tallest portion of the wall.