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Monster Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Harvey Carter and Paul Radigen, 1950s
Page Views: 3,171
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001

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  • Description 

    This climb is located on the west side of Kindergarten Rock. To get there, park at the Kindergarten Rock parking area. Cross the road and before getting to the formation cut into the wash and follow the trail at the base of the rock around the backside. Along the backside there will be an outcropping of rock (maybe 500 feet or so), the crack is located on the left side of this formation.

    The rock is a little loose at the start and can be protected using some small gear (Aliens, micro cams). As you climb higher, the crack widens and the bigger stuff is needed. Save a very large cam for the last 15 feet before the ledge. There are bolts on the ledge to anchor and rappel from.

    Protection 

    Bring the big stuff. A very large cam is needed to protect the last few feet of the climb. I think that I used a #5 Camalot.


    Photos of Monster Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Danny on rappel of Monster Crack.
    Danny on rappel of Monster Crack.
    Monster follows the left-facing corner.
    BETA PHOTO: Monster follows the left-facing corner.
    Scarecrow flake - showing 3 routes.
    BETA PHOTO: Scarecrow flake - showing 3 routes.
    Climbers on crack.
    Climbers on crack.

    Comments on Monster Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 30, 2002

    This is a great lead for placing rockcentrics/hexcentrics (you can easily sew this up using 2/3's of a set). Bring a stopper (or two, to prevent a zipper) for the bottom. As I recall there is a pin on the right side before the crack goes off-width. Above that you can use large (#4 or #5) cams, but they might slow you down as most people lie-back the finish. The crack is very positive, but if needed, you can exit the lie-back early and face climb on the right of the dihedral.

    If you plan on climbing Scarecrow, it might be worthwhile to continue past the anchors to the right up to the Scarecrow/Lance anchors (Scarecrow protects well, but sounds hollow). Climbs over on the west side see few ascents, so may be sandy. Your reward is solitude.
    By Larry Shaw
    Nov 17, 2003

    What a Garden gem...the whole gamut of climbing moves...dihedral to hand crack to chimney to offwidth. Nice and secluded without tourists.... There is one fixed pin on the route, but beware...that thing is bent about 45 degrees, and it's doubtful if it would hold another fall. Bring the #5 cam for the top or a Bigbro if you have one. Rap with one 60m or two 50s. Beware if using one 50m as it comes up about 10ft. short.
    By Bosier Parsons
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Feb 27, 2005

    Fun route.
    By BWpete
    Apr 17, 2005
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I lead this up to about 4 feet above the piton, but had to back off when I found the my largest cam was too small (3.5). My partner led the rest of it and used his Bigbros to protect the last few moves up to the top (the green and blue Bigbros). The offwidth section can be done layback, but if you choose to jam it, you have bomber chicken wings, and a knee jam that make it easy. I think the crux is the move from the offwidth/chimney around to the belay ledge.
    By Rich F.
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jun 9, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Great route -- can layback from the ground to the anchors. Take BIG gear to protect. I placed a #5 Camalot about 15 ft from the top, and anything smaller would have been two small. I also used a #4, two #3 cams, and a few #2s on the route. The crack really protects well, if you have some bigger cams. There's still one very old piton with a ring on it about 2/3 the way to the top. Fun route if you're in The Garden.
    By Darren D.
    Jan 20, 2012

    I placed a blue Bigbro on the really wide section as that is all I had. As I climbed passed it, I kicked it out. Having no protection for the last part was good motivation not to fall. Head-sized cams would be nice. Good route.
    By Ryan Chelstowski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Feb 2, 2013

    Aid roped soloed this today in high winds, added to the mental side. I would say a #4 Big bro is the key piece to have for the top to keep it comfortably safe.
    By Kyle Rodman
    Jun 30, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Lots of fun. Try using both sides of the big flake on the top section as opposed to liebacking or taking the crack straight on. Feels very exposed and airy.
    By Chance Philippi
    Jul 25, 2013

    There is a fun route above Monster crack to the top of the formation. Continue up from the belay about 30ft and head up and left following the line of least resistance. I didn't locate any old pitons :-/. It is only 5.4 or so but is about 160ft with 3 slung horns and a 0.75 cam placement. Very fun, airy and exposed, run out but on quality Kindergarten-style rock.

    Descent: scramble to the left along a large grassy ledge and downclimb class 3ish rock to get near the base of the route or continue up another 25 ft and reach the summit!
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