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Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 260', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stephen Angelini, Mack Johnson, August 1989
Page Views: 2,081
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2007
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Dewar Dihedral climbs the massive...dihedral.

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Description 

P1. Start up the giant dihedral on the left side of the catcher's mitt. Climb a super fun hands to wide hands to fist crack past an anchor to a second anchor. When I climbed this, the anchor on top of pitch one was less than inspiring, but can be backed up with gear. (5.10, 130') Per Alex Garhart: it is now two bolts and a drilled angle.

This is the end of the route Dewar Dihedral but we continued to the summit via 'As Above So Below'.

P2. Traverse straight right off the belay past a thin crack, continue up and right over manky rock to a offwidth crack and join up with 'As Above So Below.' Climb the 5.9 ow to a large ledge and anchors (5.9, 60').

P3. Face climb a bolted arete to the bird crap covered summit (5.10+, 70').

Descent - rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Then rappel off the back side of the tower to the ground.

The F.A. of 'As Above So Below' was done by - KC Baum, Andrea Heath, Peter Hollis, and Chris Monz in April 1989.


Location 

Monolith Spire is above the trail as you hike in from Lower Monument Canyon Trailhead. If you need more directions checkout Eric's 'Desert Rock III.'


Protection 

No small stuff necessary, doubles of everything from #0.5 to 4 Camalot, triples of #3 & 3.5 Camalots. One wide piece for pitch 2. Cord to replace anchors. Double ropes to rappel.



Photos of Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
The awesome 1st pitch corner!
The awesome 1st pitch corner!
The route goes up the corner around the left side and then traverses right onto the ledge on the skyline
The route goes up the corner around the left side ...
Wyatt smiles before doing battle with the desperate 3rd pitch arete. 5.10+ my eye!
Wyatt smiles before doing battle with the desperat...
Using the belay halfway up the dihedral.
Using the belay halfway up the dihedral.
Comments on Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral Add Comment
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By Alex Garhart
From: the winter wasteland
Feb 14, 2010

Anchors at the top of pitch one consist of two bolts and a drilled angle. Looks solid now, what a fun pitch.

By 007
From: cold as it gets, CO
May 23, 2012

Whoever left their #3 Camalot on this route hit me up, and I'll get it back to you.

By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Such an awesome first 2 pitches!!

By Jordan Winters
From: Minturn, CO
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

We used the belay halfway up the dihedral so we could re-use the gear from pitch 1 (drilled angle and bolt were in good shape). Dihedral pitches were fantastic (felt like 10+). Got shut down on the OW (pitch 3) due to lack of big gear. Rock Climbing Colorado calls that pitch 5.10 offwidth, and by looking at it, I would have to agree. Pretty lousy rock, bring some big gear for that pitch or have some big balls, ha.

By Airbiscuit
Apr 8, 2013

Next team to go to the top bettter bring a drill. These 2 summit 1/4"s are starting to have some pretty good wiggle to them.

By george wilkey
From: travelers rest sc
Jun 13, 2013

Great climb! Bring your big gear, this route eats 3s and 4s.

By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

First 130' good 3 & 4 jamming (wide). Last two pitches on crummy rock and waaay harder than 10+. No way to bail from the top of the offwidth pitch. So unless you are comfortable on 11s, be prepared to aid the bolts to the top!